i disagree.. bumping the car? :? no..

just dont drive the car...

i know for a fact a buddy that removed his strut brace and moved the car several feet without knowing he was not supposed to do that.. his alignment was still perfect.

As long as it'* reinstalled before driving it, you don't have to be worried about "bumping" the car.

The design on the 92-99 model doesn't allow for any play in the bolt holes. By default, it will be lined up correctly. It can only go back in EXACTLY how it was removed.

wjcollier07--please don't give out advice unless you're certain about the information. The design of your car is very different than his LeSabre.

Nice. I remember mentioning that a long time ago.

I don't have much plastic under the hood anymore, but the wipes do a great job on airboxes, rubber hoses, coils, and even metal. I still use them for those parts, as well as the firewall, Maxifuse relay center cover, etc. They're nice since they don't make a mess like CD2 can (overspray).

But I use CD2 as well. Just make sure you cover your intake at least. And don't spray directly into the alternator.

Also, something else I like to do for a clean look is to make new stickers for the rad. cover. No use having a nice clean engine bay with old peeling stickers in your face. Some people probably just take them off, but I made new ones since I have the ability. I laminated them and installed them with double-sided tape. They are holding up extremely well, as they should!

If anyone is anal like me and would like some, just LMK. lol

andrew that picture of the engine comparment you posted, whose is it?

that was BlackJack, his old '95 SSEi


And Pete, those stickers you printed, are they actual printed stickers or are they printed on paper?

I printed them on a heavy card stock and laminated them. I then used double-sided tape to adhere them to the rad. cover. I never found a really good sticker paper that would repel water when I did this project a few years ago. Even if I did, they would peel off eventually. Laminating them pretty much takes care of the problem. I spent a lot of time creating them so I made sure they would not get ruined.

I was talking about the one of the series 2

Sorry, my bad. I didnt see that one

its ok lol, he had me nervous it looked exactly like mine. The only difference was the t-stat housing. I had to run outside and make sure mine was still out there.

I cleaned a bit more and got things to shine very nicely, I'll post pictures in a minute but first I think this is something that needs to be made clear to anyone thinking of washing their engine...

No matter what you might think is safe, cover the alternator, distributor, and all sensors. I've seen a number of you saying otherwise, and I don't blame you for it. But today after letting my engine dry for a day I started my car to discover a check engine light. I had the code pulled and had to go to another store for parts. On my way over there, the car completely died and I got a low voltage warning light. Fortunately it started right up, but if it hadn't I would have been stranded without a phone. $60 and a new throttle position sensor later, I'm back on the road and running well. I'm convinced that both problems are due to the engine washing, because I am meticulous about maintenance and things like that aren't just going to slide by. I used the mist setting on the spray nozzle to rinse off the water so there was no high pressure to worry about. I was careful in applying the degreaser and also in scrubbing. The people at Autozone shook their head at me like I'd done something incredibly stupid when I told them what happened. And they were right, I did. Your engine is not meant to be drowned in water like that, no matter how little or low pressure it is. Cover sensitive parts.

Picture time...

For lack of CD2 or Armor All wipes, I used my Meguiar'* NXT plastic, rubber, and vinyl protectant. It worked well and made for a very nice shine. The guys at Autozone agreed that for all the trouble, at least I had gotten it very clean.


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