OMG. The Turtle Wax polishing compond is the closest thing you can buy to goo with sand in it. Quality polishing compounds have finer particulate with a greater density. What are you trying to accomplish? If you are after swirls and fine scratches, and you can't get it clear with something like Scratch-X, you are getting into an area which takes a number of stages and some expertise.

OT: And I don't get that cotton cloth discrimination either. It must have to do with some laws of physics I'm not familiar with. The cotton is soft, the clearcoat is hard.

^^^ I agree but if you used it with my method it would work

and yeah a big $3.00 bag of shower towels from the salvation army is the best

A buffer isn't really necessary. A good applicator pad and some fine polishes should take care of it. (pretty much repeating above posts)

thanks all for the info, etc. Its hard because theres nothing like a clean car, and I take great pride in trying to do that, but living in an apt with no garage and no place to really work on cleaning the car sucks. But anyway, it seems like I need to clean the car better and get some better stuff. Just going after some swirls and small scratches, there are minor bigger scratches, at least they are in my opinion, but I am OCD so they might have to stay. I am going to try some Scratch X and see what happens.

You guys have turned me into an OCD person with my Bonneville reading all your posts and how much you clean your car, etc, I cant compete. Great job guys for all the time you spend!! No better place then the BC Forums

The Scratch X is good for hand applications. Try to pick up a two pack of the Megs applicator pads at the same time. Do not be afraid to put some hand pressure on the pad when working the Scratch X. Most pros usually but their whole body weight into the Scratch X process. It may take three applications of Scratch X to remove the marring. After using the Scratch X by hand you will see why some of us prefer a decent random orbital buffer for polishing.

Good luck and post your results.

Ditto on the ScratchX.

I'm with ReallyAGXP on the moulding. I got some polish on mine when I first got it, and when I tried to buff it off it looked like crap. The moulding is painted, but it'* like a hard rubber, so it took away the shine I had and marred it bad. I think maybe with the waxing it has come back to looking better though.

Sorry, but I do take an exception to some of your methods like using "liberal" amounts of compound. If you use too much it will not break down properly and you will have to work it forever. And I wouldn't use a $3 bag of shower towels unless you want to put more swirls in the paint.

Geez, I am late to the party on this one....

That turtle wax rubbing compound is great stuff....IF you have a single-stage paint, and it'* thick as hell. It will take the dulling and oxidation out, but so does wetsanding.

Which brings me to another suggestion. If the damage is too severe for light compounds and a high-speed buffer to take out, consider wetsanding. By far, that is the most aggressive way to get the scratches out, but in order for that method to work, your clearcoat can't be on the thin side. Start with 1500 then work up to 2000, then 2200-grit. This will leave your paint dull, so afterwards use your high-speed buffer and a fine polish compund, then follow up with wax or Liquid Glass.

I appreciate all the feedback guys! I just had some minor scratches that I thought the Turtle Wax Polishing Compound would get out. I didnt do any real damage, I just created lots and lots of like heavy swirl marks where I tried to get the scratches out. I think I also have to wait until I can wash the car good, not the do it yourself car wash. I know, I know bad idea! I live in an apt what can I say. I'll figure it out, I think it is funny though all the different opinions sometimes, makes my head spin. Thanks again.

ohenry, take a look at Optimum No Rinse Wash. http://www.danase.com/opnowaandsh.html

It'* not cheap, but it can be a good solution for people like you that live in an apartment. You just put an ounce in a bucket for every gallon of water. Wash like normal, and then wipe it off, no rinsing. Otherwise see if you can find a coin op where they will let you bucket wash.

I said CAN, not WILL. I shoulda explained what I meant. I know that a clean soft cottom terry cloth is excellent for buffing.

I said can because some people use dirty ones, or just use them too much between washes and then rub dirt and contaiminants into the paint.

But, microfibre is really good too and is always a viable option.