Body work / Paint questions - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Detailing & Appearance Discuss washing, waxing and detailing information as well as interior/exterior cosmetic modifications. This includes neons, body, cosmetic wheels, etc. Even under the hood detailing.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-07-2010, 06:19 PM   #1
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Tricked-T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 78
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Tricked-T is on a distinguished road
Default Body work / Paint questions

To all of you who know body work really well I have a few questions. My dad and I cant seem to come to agreement on how my car should be done, and my body guy is so scatter brained it is kind of hard to talk to him.

As many of you know I am having the T-type repainted. The car was not bad before but with the little body work that needed and few paint flaws it was better to just paint it.

Anyway this car is not going to be any show car but will be driven frequently. I do however want a nice paint job that will last a long time. So my questions are these:
-Other than the trunk which was peeling bad (old trunk from other T) nothing needs to be taken down to bare metal right?
- Would you prime over the old paint after prepping or just shoot more color and clear over it, maybe spot prime?
- I keep hearing different things about letting primer cure, and paint and clear cure. Some say at least a month or paint will dull faster, some say a week or two before wet sand and buff. So many different suggestions out there.
-I guess I am asking those of you with body work experience, and knowledge how would you do YOUR car if you were "restoring" it, and making it a nice "semi-daily" eventually weekend cruiser...

At this point there is not that much in to it yet but depending on which route I want to take a little more or a lot more might need to be done, and my limited body repair/paint education is not helping....
Tricked-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 07:51 PM   #2
Retired Senior Admin

Expert Gearhead
 
Danthurs's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Danthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to all
Default

Painting a whole car is a major job. No need to prime as long as there'* no bare metal. So spot prime. Be sure to make sure all the wax is off the surface, so lots of sanding. Make sure any rags you use to wipe it down does not have any fabric softener, if it does you will get fish eyes in the paint. Make sure the surface is really smooth. Even small imperfections will show up once painted.
Danthurs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 10:05 PM   #3
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Tricked-T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 78
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Tricked-T is on a distinguished road
Default

what about curing time?
Tricked-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2010, 10:11 PM   #4
Retired Senior Admin

Expert Gearhead
 
Danthurs's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Danthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to all
Default

When I painted my hood I cleaned my paint gun, then started mixing up the next coat. I may have taken my time a bit, had a few drinks of soda, but that'* about it.
Danthurs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 12:32 PM   #5
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Tricked-T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 78
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Tricked-T is on a distinguished road
Default

what about before you wet sanded and buffed?
Tricked-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 07:45 PM   #6
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
 
golgo13's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 233
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
golgo13 is on a distinguished road
Default

DANTHURS is correct, prep work is 90% of a paint job, use the proper chemicals and steps to make sure the body is clean and straight, when in doubt, clean it again. Besides guide coats when block sanding, some water on a primed surface can show what the body will look like when painted.

before color sanding and buffing? Allow new paint to dry at least 24 hours before wet sanding, though the time will vary depending on temperature, humidity levels and how many coats of paint were applied. Simply, just be sure the paint is good and dry before wet sanding.

Probably best to ask the paint reps where you are getting your paint. What brand/system is being used?

What steps are being done after you sand to bare metal/ repair work?

Depending on how much spot priming you are doing, a sealer may be a good idea before you spray the base, ensures a uniform color to spray over and better paint adhesion depending on the product and flash time. May not be needed but something to consider..

Last edited by golgo13; 06-08-2010 at 07:56 PM.
golgo13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2010, 10:42 PM   #7
Administratus Emeritus
Certified Car Nut
 
GXP Venom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Purgatory, Pennsylvania
Posts: 16,538
Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts
GXP Venom is on a distinguished road
Default

Sanding to bare metal is in no way necessary and often makes for more trouble than you might think.It is a must to sand/scoff the old paint to get proper adhesion. Make sure it is dust free and a prep solvent used before painting. Priming is only necessary where you have sanded to bare metal. Some primers and paints if miss match as to the "carrier" solvent" can be reactive when one is put against the other, give primer a day. As Golgo recommends, at least a day before wet sanding. Two would be better just to take into consideration temps and humidity. Wash car thoroughly with a mild detergent, rinse well, and allow to dry before you begin buffing. Everyone has favs. The shop I hang at (Dreamakers Kustoms) and did my GXP twice now swears by Diamont paint http://www.rmpaint.com/en_UK/products/range/diamont.xml and Farecla buffing compounds http://www.farecla.com/. Both are top level quality products. They are a Custom Shop with as many awards as anyone on the East Coast.
GXP Venom is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
W Body Owner considering a H Body. Lots of questions deanh8 Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 5 10-12-2008 11:12 PM
Simple body work and a paint job CmptrNerd Detailing & Appearance 1 01-05-2005 05:47 PM
Questions questions questions big_boss2010 1992-1999 2 09-06-2003 01:41 PM
Body work questions SSEimatt93 1992-1999 12 06-03-2003 10:04 PM
Body Work Questions Damemorder 1992-1999 1 11-20-2002 10:14 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:02 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.