Any good low cost recommendations for obd 1&2? Or maybe obd1?

That is likely a transition system OBD 1.5. You just need to make sure the tool will support your vehicle.

Well, I tightened the upper radiator hose which repaired the coolant leak. Took it on a test drive. To my disappointment, still 155 degrees, and a slight miss at idle.

What is your current outside air temperature?
I know if it is cold outside like 14F- my Buick does hold around 180F at hwy speed, yet I have sill have good heat inside.
That is where covering the rad up, should get it warmer.
In your case I'm not sure what is going on, Is the coolant level now constant and not dropping now?

Yesterday about 46. It doesn't matter if its 30 or 90, engine temp stays about 155. I may try covering the radiator....but I shouldn't have to. I just cant figure what is going on. I am leaning toward somehow the intake or the injector, being the compression is between 128 and 135.

I can't imagine that it would run cool if it kept running for an unlimited period of time. I'm not doubting jswiftsr'* report. At the same time, if it is running, lots of heat is being created, transferred through metal to coolant. This will make it get hot. If the thermostat is closed it will get warmer until it turns to steam or until the thermostat opens. On many cars I've upgraded the radiator from single-row to four-row, then driven and idled in sub-freezing temperatures, and still gotten warmed up and had heat left over. I suppose if a person were idling a GM 4.3 V6 in Alaska in 50 below zero and had the heaters on high and all of the doors open they could cool the coolant faster than the engine could create heat, but that'* not being done here.

In this, either heat isn't being created, the thermostat is stuck open, and/or the radiator fan is on full all the time . . . or the world has conspired against jswiftsr and more than one thing is reading the temperature incorrectly.