IPC\DIC parasitic draw
Hello all.
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer, V8 with extended cab that has a parasitic draw of 500 milliamps, I was able to narrow it down to the IPC\DIC fuse # 24.
Now, the instrument cluster went out after we had some extreme cold weather last year. It had no activity whatsoever, no odometer and none of the gauges moved at all. It started working again randomly and then became intermittent after that. So I took it to a mechanic and he ended up replacing it with a refurbished one, which is warrantied. He also mentioned at the time that my battery was dead and not being a mechanic myself, didn't think anything of it.
So he put the new one in and it died a day later. I decided to just leave it be and drove the vehicle for a few weeks until I went to turn it on and the battery was dead. So I took it out and charged it, and put it back in, and it was dead in a week.
Bought myself a multimeter and did the parasitic draw test. When I remove the fuse, the 500ma drops to 14ma. When I put it back in, it initially draws 2.5 amps or so and then drops back to 500ma.
Now that I know what is causing that, and seeing it is linked to my initial issue of the instrument panel going out, what should I be looking for? Could the refurbished odometer be bad? Could something else be causing the instrument panel to burn out as soon as its connected?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer, V8 with extended cab that has a parasitic draw of 500 milliamps, I was able to narrow it down to the IPC\DIC fuse # 24.
Now, the instrument cluster went out after we had some extreme cold weather last year. It had no activity whatsoever, no odometer and none of the gauges moved at all. It started working again randomly and then became intermittent after that. So I took it to a mechanic and he ended up replacing it with a refurbished one, which is warrantied. He also mentioned at the time that my battery was dead and not being a mechanic myself, didn't think anything of it.
So he put the new one in and it died a day later. I decided to just leave it be and drove the vehicle for a few weeks until I went to turn it on and the battery was dead. So I took it out and charged it, and put it back in, and it was dead in a week.
Bought myself a multimeter and did the parasitic draw test. When I remove the fuse, the 500ma drops to 14ma. When I put it back in, it initially draws 2.5 amps or so and then drops back to 500ma.
Now that I know what is causing that, and seeing it is linked to my initial issue of the instrument panel going out, what should I be looking for? Could the refurbished odometer be bad? Could something else be causing the instrument panel to burn out as soon as its connected?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Hmm.. I was told no draw should exceed 50ma while the vehicle is asleep. Isn't 500ma a little much?
The battery is brand new, a Super Start Premium, CCA 690, CA 850, RV 220. The alternator is also brand new, a 145 amp Ultima Select that I got from o'reillys.
The battery is brand new, a Super Start Premium, CCA 690, CA 850, RV 220. The alternator is also brand new, a 145 amp Ultima Select that I got from o'reillys.
The only thing I see the #24 fuse feeds is the IPC, It'* the battery positive for the ipc. as per SI doc# 1285326 and 1318886. Can try to unplug the IPC and see if the draw goes away. If not it'* possible an issue in the under hood fuse box. Hope this helps.
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acamato
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Apr 10, 2012 01:56 AM










