'97 3.1 Lumina, loss of power
.CSV = C omma * eparated V alues, common for large data exports that are compatible with most things. Well, "large data" like what we're talking about here, not "large data" like Walmart'* receipt archives or Netflix'* back room.
I found the yellow sensor wire that goes from the MAF sensor to the PCM wasn't clean when I used my Ohm meter, it showed about 1.71. I ran a new wire along the same route and spliced it into the existing connectors. The new test drive was markedly better in acceleration and speed. However, after clearing the code, it still showed ""PO102, Mass of Volume Air Flow A, Circuit Low."
I grabbed an older laptop in great condition with XP on it, so I could run the GM program to flash the PCM, I'm loading XP Professional on it with Service Pack 3 so it should run it properly, and I'll "flash" the junkyard PCM first to my daughter'* VIN and see if that fixes the issue. Sound Like a good plan?
I grabbed an older laptop in great condition with XP on it, so I could run the GM program to flash the PCM, I'm loading XP Professional on it with Service Pack 3 so it should run it properly, and I'll "flash" the junkyard PCM first to my daughter'* VIN and see if that fixes the issue. Sound Like a good plan?
Thread Starter
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 43
Likes: 6
From: The Spinning Rock

Finished (though I had to go to a shop with a Tech 2 and basically rent it with the mechanic).
Everything is factory spec, and it idles and revs without issue. No trouble codes. Everything is within spec. when we looked over all the info in his Tech 2 readings.
When driving (though markedly better and gets up to highway speed great), still it seems the engine, as it is accelerating: feels that it either adjusts the fuel/spark a bit, or the transmission shifts prematurely into a higher gear or something (that'* the only way I can describe it). It'* weird to feel the car do something without driver input. Whatever it is is keeps the car from continuing its acceleration for a few seconds. If I give it throttle during the event, it downshifts and accelerates great through the issue. If I don't alter the accelerator, and keep it steady during the event, it waits a few seconds and then shifts to overdrive and feels normal.
Since I changed the fluid and filter when I first was alerted of the issue by my daughter during my maintenance work, and the old fluid was discolored (aged) and there was no metal dust or filings on the magnet, I'm wondering if I just need to allow her to drive it and change the fluid again in a few days and see if it flushes more of the old fluid that was trapped inside the torque converter?
Everything is factory spec, and it idles and revs without issue. No trouble codes. Everything is within spec. when we looked over all the info in his Tech 2 readings.
When driving (though markedly better and gets up to highway speed great), still it seems the engine, as it is accelerating: feels that it either adjusts the fuel/spark a bit, or the transmission shifts prematurely into a higher gear or something (that'* the only way I can describe it). It'* weird to feel the car do something without driver input. Whatever it is is keeps the car from continuing its acceleration for a few seconds. If I give it throttle during the event, it downshifts and accelerates great through the issue. If I don't alter the accelerator, and keep it steady during the event, it waits a few seconds and then shifts to overdrive and feels normal.
Since I changed the fluid and filter when I first was alerted of the issue by my daughter during my maintenance work, and the old fluid was discolored (aged) and there was no metal dust or filings on the magnet, I'm wondering if I just need to allow her to drive it and change the fluid again in a few days and see if it flushes more of the old fluid that was trapped inside the torque converter?
I don't think that will yield a change in performance, but it'* good to get the old fluid out.
Have you tried manually shifting it down a gear when it is in the lag zone? From your description, it sounds like it is shifting into third gear.
What RPM is it at while in the lag zone?
Have you tried manually shifting it down a gear when it is in the lag zone? From your description, it sounds like it is shifting into third gear.
What RPM is it at while in the lag zone?
Thread Starter
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 43
Likes: 6
From: The Spinning Rock

PROBLEM SOLVED
So my friend has some awesome equipment to test Hz and other sensor feedback and we looked at the Knock Sensor and the O2 Sensors (much more sensitive than mine as well as had the exact ranges of signal that should be expected). The Knock Sensor and the O2 Sensors both looked slightly out of spec, enough to do a test drive with first the Knock Sensor disconnected and then a drive with both the Knock Sensor as well as the upstream O2 Sensor disconnected.
With the Knock Sensor disconnected the drag or delay in acceleration under load was gone, though it wasn't completely smooth. With both disconnected, it drove really well and there was no drag or delay or alteration of power during driving. I replaced both the Knock Sensor as well as the upstream O2 Sensor and tested the car again. It drives as it should.
So, in the end, the car had these issues:
1) the #1 cylinder had a head gasket leak, fixed with head gaskets replaced
2) the MAF sensor was sending inaccurate info and had a damaged wire, replaced
3) the vacuum Transmission Modulator was broken, replaced
4) the upstream O2 Sensor was not within spec, replaced
5) the Knock Sensor was sending wildly inaccurate info, replaced
Interestingly, only item #2 above was determined by the PCM to be in error and would throw a Service Engine Soon light or throw a code, the PCM was silent on the other errors. I guess a '97 GM PCM was not very sophisticated.
Anyway, thanks for your help!!!
So my friend has some awesome equipment to test Hz and other sensor feedback and we looked at the Knock Sensor and the O2 Sensors (much more sensitive than mine as well as had the exact ranges of signal that should be expected). The Knock Sensor and the O2 Sensors both looked slightly out of spec, enough to do a test drive with first the Knock Sensor disconnected and then a drive with both the Knock Sensor as well as the upstream O2 Sensor disconnected.
With the Knock Sensor disconnected the drag or delay in acceleration under load was gone, though it wasn't completely smooth. With both disconnected, it drove really well and there was no drag or delay or alteration of power during driving. I replaced both the Knock Sensor as well as the upstream O2 Sensor and tested the car again. It drives as it should.
So, in the end, the car had these issues:
1) the #1 cylinder had a head gasket leak, fixed with head gaskets replaced
2) the MAF sensor was sending inaccurate info and had a damaged wire, replaced
3) the vacuum Transmission Modulator was broken, replaced
4) the upstream O2 Sensor was not within spec, replaced
5) the Knock Sensor was sending wildly inaccurate info, replaced
Interestingly, only item #2 above was determined by the PCM to be in error and would throw a Service Engine Soon light or throw a code, the PCM was silent on the other errors. I guess a '97 GM PCM was not very sophisticated.
Anyway, thanks for your help!!!
Thread Starter
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 43
Likes: 6
From: The Spinning Rock

I don't think that will yield a change in performance, but it'* good to get the old fluid out.
Have you tried manually shifting it down a gear when it is in the lag zone? From your description, it sounds like it is shifting into third gear.
What RPM is it at while in the lag zone?
Have you tried manually shifting it down a gear when it is in the lag zone? From your description, it sounds like it is shifting into third gear.
What RPM is it at while in the lag zone?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







