Weird that one is tight and one is loose. That is two separate chains , so it is possible to have this happen. It could be that the Bank 1 tensioner is bound up I suppose.

This is the layout of that engine:

I pushed down on the bank 1 chain as it was cranking and I didn’t feel any fluctuations.
I plan on doing a crank and cam correlation test once my oscilloscope comes in.

So I’ve finally gotten back to working on this issue. I 100 percent verified that the timing was off by doing a crank and cam correlation test with an oscilloscope. Only bank 1 was out of time.
Today I pulled the timing cover off again and from what I can tell, the bank 1 chain was off by half of a tooth. And the reason why the chain was so tight was because there was only 11 1/2 chain links between the camshaft timing marks and there’* supposed to be 12. Not sure how I accomplished that but it’* prematurely wore the chain guides.
So I figured I would restart and at least time the bank 2 chain and the primary chain but found that the tensioner on bank 2 is already failing. I feel like I’m catching a lot of poor quality parts.
Now I plan to just buy a whole new kit of chains, tensioners and guides.
After I get parts and retime this engine again what would anyone suggest as the best way to prime the timing system?
Before I would just hand crank a few revolutions and then use the starter and crank for a while with no fuel or spark of course.

You're talking about priming oil in the tensioners and phasers, right?

Yeah, crank it for a while.

I put in all new chain tensioners and retimed everything with all the marks lining up perfectly. Finished putting the engine back together today and got it running.
Runs well and drives well with plenty of power. I’m now only getting the P0016 code. The only old part on that side is the exhaust cam phaser.
I’ll switch the actuator solenoids around and see if the code goes to a different camshaft but if it doesn’t, should I go ahead and replace the exhaust cam phaser?

Sounds like that'* probably the best path to go.

I’ve replaced all Camshaft phasers and no luck solving the P0016 code.
I most recently replaced the right side (Bank 1) chain, guides, and tensioner with the possibility of premature wear from the previously failed tensioner in mind. And of course get the same code again.
I am dead sure that this engine is in time mechanically. So I switched focus to the circuits once more. I already confirmed the crankshaft position sensor circuit had 5 volts for reference and good ground on the low reference. I have confirmed that all four camshaft position sensor connectors have 5 volts references and I also tested resistance from each wire in the connectors all the way to the ECM connector and all of them have 0 ohms.
The engine and car run very well but it’* obvious that the cams aren’t advancing or retarding to get optimal power due to the P0016 code.
Considering all of this, do you think I should condemn the Engine Control Module? Or are there any other possibilities you could think of?

P0016 tells me that crank and this cam are out of time. If it were bad PCM or wiring, I'd suspect you'd get a code for bad sensor, open circuit to the sensor, etc.

I’ll try another cam and crank correlation test and go from there. This is the 5th time I’ve removed and installed the timing cover. I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this especially considering that the engine runs well.

So I borrowed a picoscope from my college and discovered that the bank 1 intake camshaft (which refers to P0016) is advanced one tooth in comparison to the crankshaft. Here is the waveform for Bank 1 that I captured.


Red is Bank 1 Intake Cam Sensor

Blue is Exhaust Cam