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Old 12-29-2014, 10:00 AM   #1
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Default 2004 Cavalier: Heat/Air stuck on face vents

The **** moves to all positions, but the air flow only comes out of the face vents. Any suggestions on how I should start?

Thanks,
Randel
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:01 AM   #2
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if its vacuum operated, you can see if you have vacuum to the control unit, sometimes the connections get loose or hard and dont seal anymore. if its got a linkage from the vacuum duct actuator it may need lubrication
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Old 12-30-2014, 05:28 PM   #3
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Thanks JW for the reply. Turns out that it is a cable operation and the cable is kinked, not allowing the cable to move into the cable housing. This is a common problem on the Cavaliers and most of the time you can use some needle nose pliers to push the cable into the housing, which will straighten the cable and fix it temporarily. In my case, the actuator door is stuck, not allowing me to push the cable all the way back into the housing so I am going to remove the dash and lube the actuator. I also read that the foam seal sometimes melts and causes the defrost door to not open. This is what I believe is my issue. Time for a Saturday project. Will post my findings once I get the dash off.
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:10 PM   #4
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thanks for the update, havent worked on a cav before, i know they used a ton of different setups. the vaccum actuators they used in the manual control stuff till 05 or 06, which is weird because they started with electric in 88 in the trucks and that. you would think as standard as gm is they would make all of them the same
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:22 PM   #5
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I finally got the dash torn apart and found the cable got kinked at the control end. I noticed that the floor door was causing a lot of resistance on the cable. I could not see the doors but did manage to see the cam and grooves that the cable operate so I sprayed the cams with PB Blaster and let set overnight. I also sprayed down the sides of the box in the areas that I figured the axles would be. The next day, I used my hand to work the cam and it eventually loosened up. My cable had been worked to a point that I knew not to use it, so off to the local pull a part and $3 later, I have my new/used cable. I did reverse the cable from how it was taken off the junker. After putting everything back, the **** now operates the ducts properly.

On another site, a commenter suggested leaving the **** in the defrost position when the unit is turned off. I can see why because the cable is into the housing as far as it can go, which will use a pull motion when the cable is used.

Hope this helps someone.
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