well, i got the switch where i can access it. looks like i can drill the square peg that locks it into the switch. if that dont work, ill call a pro after work tomorrow. heres hoping!

p.*. i cant even remove the entire switch, as you can only remove the shifter cable from the switch while it is in the run position. so my choices are: drill, or cut the shifter cord that is tangled thru everything then replace it.

well, drilling was a no go. my bits arent strong enough for whatever that pin is made of. i ended up taking a bunch of the dash apart, cutting the shifter lock cable and removing the entire assembly. gave it to my dad to play with overnight. let him work his magic. in the morning when it still is stuck in the switch, im going to take it to work with me and go to the locksmith after work.

on a side note, the bulldog remote start is awesome. i dont know what type of witchcraft it uses to trick the car into thinking the key is the right one by just tapping into 2 wires and not telling the brain what value the key has, but even with the ignition completely out i was able to start the car in neutral and move it out of the way with the parking brake. lol

will post an update with pictures (assuming the locksmith shows me the issue) tomorrow.

the remote start bypasses after 99ish access the computers network to disable passkey and security. they are hooked to the brake switch normally though it should have quit when you hit it to put it in gear if it was installed properly

are you able to do a relearn of the system after install?

@ justin: i started the car in neutral (since i cut the cable i was able to shift with the car off) and bumped it into drive and used the parking brake to move the car.

i got the lock fixed, instead of replacing it. ($25.00!!!) put it back in, car started fine, drove to the gas station filled er up and picked my mom up from work, as i was using her car while lauren had mine. picked her up, drove home no issues at all.


heres the new problem.

told lauren i would take her car to work this morning and hit a few bumps to shake the lock around just to be sure it would not leave her stranded. remote started it fine, came out to the nice warm car, and put the key in run, the 'PRND321' turned off, showing just mileage. the gas gauge also dropped to zero, and the low fuel message came on. hit the brake turning the remote start off, and the car turned off. tried to start with key, and same issues as above, with the added problem of the car not starting, and now the security light is flashing between the low fuel message.

the remote start now has the same issue as the key, and the stereo now says CAL ERR

tried a relearn (10 minutes of key on after trying to crank) and still no go. i dont understand what happened. same key, same lock same switch.... and the car ran fine all last night! cut it off at the gas station, cut it off at moms work, and restarted it at home just to make sure the lock didnt stick after driving.

this car just hates me.

also took this video today... any help is much appreciated!!!!


also, a picture of my crappy (but functional) solder joints made with a barley working butane lighter in -4*F





thanks again!!!

your joints may be the issue, sounds like under voltage or no voltage from the ign switch. you are going to need to get were you can make a decent connection with a good soldering iron especially if its that cold

well, i got home from work and took it out. joints were good, so i looked at the switch. upon taking off the cover, i found 2 burnt connections and 3 little tiny springs. i took apart the other side, and found that there are little pins which push on these springs and engage the connections. looks like all that bumping with a hammer screwed up the pins in there. of course, it was 9:01 when i found this out, so ill have to take a trip to the AZ tomorrow morning. i really wanted to go to the auto show tomorrow, as its my only off day during the show, but it looks like thats a no go.

Jason will understand this comment...based upon all of the electrical problems..
I think at this point You already know what the easiest solution should be!! LOL...
Oh boy..sorry to hear of all of this..If I was there I would try to help you out, I have a weller 200 watt 120v iron here and a butane solder kit as well.

i never have had good luck trying to solder in cars with a torch, or butane soldering iron. i use a a big gun its like 2 or 300w and that heats the wire up properly in wind or cold