wheel bearing sensor in apark ave. worth changing? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-15-2011, 11:29 PM   #1
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Default wheel bearing sensor in apark ave. worth changing?

ok so its a long story but to make it extremely short i had a friend at midas throw his diagnostic machine on my car and its saying the front left hub sensor is sending erratic signal causing my car when its about 90 or above to randomly kick on the trac control and abs all on its own till it eventually turns them off and the lights come on. the bearing is solid as a rock but i was wondering about your guys' opnions. is there a fuse i can pull for the abs and trac? its really annoying leaving a light with the brakes inadvertently half on
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:32 PM   #2
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There is a fuse for the ABS, but I'm not sure where it is on your car. The sensor can't be changed on it'* own. So to get it all to work you will need to change the bearing. It'* not a real hard job, perhaps a hour or so. I have a write up on how to do it and even how to make a super cheap hub puller.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:33 PM   #3
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There is a fuse for the ABS, but I'm not sure where it is on your car. The sensor can't be changed on it'* own. So to get it all to work you will need to change the bearing. It'* not a real hard job, perhaps a hour or so. I have a write up on how to do it and even how to make a super cheap hub puller.

yea only problem is i have zero dollars apart from gas money lol. thanks alot for the rec though, ill look for it as soon a i have the cash for the bearing
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:37 PM   #4
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We'll also assume that the speeds of 90 or above are obtained on a proper race track or dragstrip. GM Forum doesn't condone violating traffic laws (or any laws, for that matter).

But that being said, Dan'* right on the money. The hub assembly is manufactured, sold, and replaced as a single unit. You may want to consider replacing both of your front ones, as they generally tend to wear pretty evenly.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:43 PM   #5
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We'll also assume that the speeds of 90 or above are obtained on a proper race track or dragstrip. GM Forum doesn't condone violating traffic laws (or any laws, for that matter).

But that being said, Dan'* right on the money. The hub assembly is manufactured, sold, and replaced as a single unit. You may want to consider replacing both of your front ones, as they generally tend to wear pretty evenly.

well i just had the right one replaced about 2 weeks ago. and a for the 9 thing, i meant 90 degrees on the house thermometer sorry for not being clear. it didnt do it at all today (43 degrees)
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:30 AM   #6
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the only thing i know you can change thats part of that assembly is the pig tail wire, but idk if that has anything to do with your problem, all I would have to say is replace wheel bearing, those tend to be recurring problems in buicks, me and my dad have both changed ours 3 times on our lesabres.. ridiculous.
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:34 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by eltatertoto View Post
ok so its a long story but to make it extremely short i had a friend at midas throw his diagnostic machine on my car and its saying the front left hub sensor is sending erratic signal causing my car when its about 90 or above to randomly kick on the trac control and abs all on its own till it eventually turns them off and the lights come on. the bearing is solid as a rock but i was wondering about your guys' opnions. is there a fuse i can pull for the abs and trac? its really annoying leaving a light with the brakes inadvertently half on
On my '96 Bonneville, I put a piece of tape over the ABS light, until i had time to check my sensors. That was a pretty good fix, in my book. I'm not a fan of ABS.

When i checked the sensors on the bearing hubs (there'* a pretty slick way to check that with a multimeter on an AC setting, I think it is in Techinfo here, too), I also noticed those wires to the sensors are a pitifully frail gauge. So just for laughs and giggles, I insulated the wires better with tape and cleaned the sensor/ contacts. Back together and try it. the ABS light didn't clear in the pre-test start, but it did after a a couple of miles or so.

FWIW, A year later, i got the ABS/TractC light again. this time I had to bite the bullet and have the Tech II check, because the sensors were fine again. It ended up the problem was quite simple... the ABS control module had failed... I had taken it to a GM Dealer, so they can always get a weird part lickety-split, if anybody can.

So, it would only be 3-6 months to get the part, and if US GM did happen to accidentally find one in that timeframe, it would only be $900 plus labor. (At the time GM was officially on their back, any parts they did inventory, they had sold to retailers like Jegs, for cash for their balance sheet.)

Actually, this was kind of a shock, and made me the opposite of happy. But where there is a boneyard, there is always hope. Normal people go to Tiffany malls and big box Best Buy stores to browse, look around, and have fun. I go to junkyards.

It is not unlike being a pirate, except that you are shaved and wear deodorant. And the search for treasure is unheroically easy compared to the adventures of Jack Sparrow and Long John Silver. So, I went home, cleaned the excess out of pants, and threw on my yard crawling clothes.

The ABS unit is that frightening box on the firewall, just below the charcoal cannister. It has brake lines going into it, and coming out the other side. But that is not usually what fails...

It'* the control module with the IC boards. That is essentially just the back cover of this ugly sss thing, and can be removed in about 5 minutes and a few/bolt/screws. (IIRC) For our '96-'99 Bonnes/LeSabre/88s, there are only 2 different model numbers. And because in the '90s, the National Safety Board were all-over ABS systems and their recalls, you are virtually guaranteed a part number label fused to the top of the control module. It'* a long number, but it has extra numbers on it, so it can be traced back to where it was manufactured and date. The location number and date are immaterial to your match-up.

I'm actually not a big fan of buying electronic pieces at yards, you really have to figure your risk/reward situation. There'* no way to be sure the thing is functioning properly.

However, at the yards I frequent, a unit/module is $25-$35. So I figure, discounting my time, I have about 30 tries to break even. But it'* pretty likely you'll get a capable module on the first try , or second, if necessary.

I hope your problem doesn't escalate to that, and i really just posted this long, boring drivel because I wanted to get my adventure on the record.

I just wanted people to know there is an alternative to crepping your pants when the Service Manager tells you it'll be $1000 to get that stinkin' ABS light gone.

Good Luck
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