Replacing Timing Chain/Gears Questions - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 01-15-2012, 11:17 PM   #31
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I stuck the cam bolt in place to check alignment. Maybe I need to shift the crank a bit and see if that allows me to push it on by hand. Here is a photo.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:32 AM   #32
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I installed a timing set this morning and i put mine crank on first then the dowel pin on cam.and turn the cam to line up with the holes.I had to use a brass punch and ball peen hamer to lightly tap it into place
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:35 PM   #33
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The dots look good, but dang, that'* tight. Are you sure you have the right gear set? Something just don't seem right, 2 sets and both very tight.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:36 PM   #34
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The cam gear and chain is in place. Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions. There was probably nothing wrong with the first set. Once in place, the chain is not that tight; I guess once it is in proper alignment. There is the proper deflection I would expect to see.

The problem was that I was afraid of damaging the chain, or the gear, or shaft or pin and I could not see what was going on since it is just me. What I did was to place a suitable sized mirror resting on the crankshaft and AC bracket that would allow me to see the face of the timing gear. I could see the shaft and pin were in the proper place although I could not push it on by hand. I then put the cam bolt in place and using very light pressure on the socket wrench simply pushed the cam gear in place using the cam bolt. It slid easily into place without any effort.

Being able to see the face of the gear and seeing that the alignment was correct did away with my fear of damaging something.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:27 AM   #35
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I also will put a light behind the cam gear to see the key line up in the keyway of the gear.
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:50 AM   #36
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Good to hear you got it on.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:45 PM   #37
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I had someone to tell me that one should pull the filter adapter when doing the timing chain repair so you can do a proper cleaning. A GM service bulletin warns that trash can cause the relief valve to stick open preventing normal oil pressure. I thought I would pass that along.

Now, I have a question about the gasket. I noticed that the inlet and outlet for the water pump could leak and cause water to enter the oil pan. Is there any precaution I should do with installing the gaskets? Do I need to apply rtv anywhere? Dad always applied spray-on copper coat to just one side of the gasket, usually on the part side (timing chain cover). He told me that made it easier to take the part back off it needed.. Please recommend on this as I get ready to reinstall things.

Gosh, this has been one slow job for me. For one thing, the shed has no insulation and no heat.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:27 PM   #38
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Another question. I have learned that there is no such thing as a counterbore hole on the chain tensioner, that the differences is that one has a longer bolt. I think I ordered the shorter bolt one; need to pull it back off to be sure. I am wondering if I can go ahead and use the shorter bolt one or if I need to go back and order the one with the longer bolt.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:10 AM   #39
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Not sure what you are refering to. The tensioner bolt only holds it in place. I have not heard of any with different length bolts.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:37 PM   #40
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The job is complete. Yes, there are two different chain tensioners/dampers on these cars, one is shorter length; there is no such thing as a counterbore hole so you have to know which length you have.

I reordered to get the correct one and when it came, it was the correct box but wrong part. So I had to order for the third time.
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