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Old 03-14-2011, 10:31 PM   #1
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Default Replacing Multi Function lever?

My MF lever has gotten pretty bad at switching between highs and lows. Usually gets stuck on high beams, and wont switch over unless its pulled several times. But lately, its actually gotten stuck in the middle, with no lights at all. Driving along at 55 in the dark, go to switch the lights, and have nothing but darkness... not a pleasant surprise.

So I have here a whole mess from Morad, the switch itself, plus about 1000 miles of wiring. I've done this in other cars, but I though it was going to be a bit less complicated until this showed up today.

Anyone have pointers on replacing this thing? I have the next 2 days off and hope to get it done.
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:34 PM   #2
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im really interested to see the results of this. i dont use the brights much but when i want them to stay on or turn them off i have to pull back so far im afraid of snapping the stalk.

please take some pics if at all possible, id love to do this too.
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:15 AM   #3
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I've been looking into replacing mine, ever since it got caught on my coat and pulled out; it went back in, but the wiper switch (save for washer) never worked again.

The lever itself doesn't have to be replaced, but if you opt for a newer one that doesn't have half the letters rubbed off, you'll find it'* connected by only one wire and should just pull out of the switch with a good tug… maybe.

The steering wheel, horn switch, and airbag all have to come off; and you'll have to get into the steering column before you can get at the multifunction switch. You will likely need specialized tools to properly remove some of the steering wheel components.

You'll find a rough how-to guide on switch replacement elsewhere in the forum. Good luck, and take lots of pictures.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:41 PM   #4
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Well, its done.
I read, and re-read the FSM. I had a steering wheel puller actually. But I didn't have the airbag removal thingamabober. So, without that, I couldn't get the wheel off anyway.
So I took most of my dash apart, to give me as much working room as possible. Everything that wasn't welded in, came out.

First, disabled the SIR zone 3.
Next, pulled the knee bolster, bracing, dash bezel, trim, and gauge surrounds.
Pulled the headlight switch and trim.
Took out the 2 torx t-20s from the bottom, and pulled the tilt lever out.
Had to get to the reverse torx holding the top cover on, but up through the bottom and through the mechanism. Finally found a 4mm that took it out.
The MF switch itself is held in by 2 t20s, one right behind the wheel, the other on top. The top was easy. One behind the wheel needed a 1/4" wrench and a t20 bit, and a lot of patience.
Then I just pulled wiring up, disconnected as I went along. Pulled the master connector apart at the base of the dash, then worked it all back through. Got hung up on one wire, switch for the reverse lights I think. It wrapped up around the column and up into the dash.
Attached the new one (or rather good used one that looked new, thanks to Erik at Morad). Worked my way back down connecting wires as I went.
Tested it all before putting all the trim back in, and enabling the SIR. Started it up cautiously and backed away from the wheel, but it checked out ok. Things make me nervous!

Hardest part was getting all the column pieces back together and fit right.
If I had the tool to pull the airbag, I would have been done a long time ago. Having the wheel in the way was the hardest part to deal with.
If I had to do it again, I would get the airbag out of the way first, then pull the wheel. Room is so minimal, and those column trim pieces really don't want to come out easily.

But its an amazing difference. I checked and double checked all the functions, lights, signals, hazards, wipers, the canceling cam turning off the signals lights after a turn, and most importantly the high to low switch. You barely have to pull on it. Feels like the brand new one I put in my Cruiser a few years ago. It was that good, I didn't realize how bad the old one really was. You really had to pull the thing back far to switch it, but not this one.

So, anyone else trying this, get the airbag removal tool, and a rent a wheel puller. It will save you a lot of time and headache. I had the wheel puller, but no airbag tool.

I was tempted to take pictures, but all I have is my camera phone at 5MP. Its good, but with all the grease (and the unintentionally donated blood to the cause) I didnt want to mess it up. Plus it really wasn't the right or easy way to do it. So all I have is the advice and make sure you have the tools.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:59 PM   #5
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should have said something i gots the air bag tool
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawgunner View Post
should have said something i gots the air bag tool
Thanks Steve, but usually don't like borrowing other peoples stuff, I figure I might as well buy my own. My best friend is a pro mechanic about an hour from me. I can probably borrow just about anything needed on any job if I pay him a visit.
I'd just rather have the tools on hand to do what I need without depending on anyone else. I'm afraid of breaking it, loosing it, having it bent or something and having to replace it.
In fact, that reminds me I need a set of reverse Torx bits now. I have a single reverse 8 for the headlight adjustment, but I really needed a reverse 4 for the little bugger in the column. I swore I had a set of them, not long ago. Then realized I was thinking of the security torx bits I got to change the MAF. Yet another thing to buy. lol.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:23 PM   #7
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LOL it'* a $7 tool from Ebay i don't think i'd cry about it LOL it doesnt work on my impy or the wifes cobalt anyways
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