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To be clear: The electrode is in the center. The ground is on the side. I'm hoping you were bending the ground. I am also hoping you weren't bending the ground by prying against the electrode. This damages the electrode.
Originally Posted by buickman32
What vacuum line is it that I should pull? The one connecting to the throttle body? The U shaped line? Or is there another line the connects behind the regulator?
Here you go:
Originally Posted by buickman32
#3 cylinder for me is the front bank middle cylinder. My grandpa told me it is the front bank cylinder closest to the airbox. SO now I dont know what to believe and I am really glad you asked me that question.
@CathedralCub checked the vacuum lines and everything seemed alright. Did the fuel pressure test and everything looked good on that end. I checked the ICM with a multimeter from a test I found online and it came out fine. Today I will be testing the compression.
What is the fuel pressure with the ignition on and engine idling?
What is the fuel pressure with the ignition on and engine idling and vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and the end of that vacuum line plugged off?
When testing the compression watch the 1st puff and compare that to another cylinder. Have seen a lot of these with leaking exhaust valves. Usually I see this around 45mph in 4th gear and tcc applied,then crowd the throttle but not enough to get a down shift or sometimes at idle you can feel it with your hand on the engine. If you have a scan tool available you can see it on the misfire counter. Just something to think about.
@dpieroni3 beat me to it! Big update on the misfire. Ran a dry then wet compression test yesterday and here were the results. Cylinder 1: 150 PSI Cylinder 3: 90 PSI Cylinder 5: 150 PSI. Did a wet test on Cylinder 3 and came out to 90 PSI. Conclusion: Something wrong with the valves. To be honest, I am relieved it is not a ring issue. I will be working on the head next weekend when I have some time off from school? Any tips and tricks for this type of job?
dipieoni3 beat me to it! Big update on the misfire. Ran a dry then wet compression test yesterday and here were the results. Cylinder 1: 150 PSI Cylinder 3: 90 PSI Cylinder 5: 150 PSI. Did a wet test on Cylinder 3 and came out to 90 PSI. Conclusion: Something wrong with the valves. To be honest, I am relieved it is not a ring issue. I will be working on the head next weekend when I have some time off from school? Any tips and tricks for this type of job?
My main tip: Make sure you have something else to drive while you have this one apart.
Sort of bummed I got to get back in there because I basically have to the LIM, UIM all over again. So quick question. The LIM, UIM, Valve gaskets all have 300 miles on them. Same with the oil and coolant. Can I reuse everything including the oil and coolant or thats a dumb idea. I will need to get new head gaskets? I really don't want to tackle the rear side if I dont have to but it doesnt really make sense to change one head gasket one I am already under there. All I need is new head bolts and possibly head gaskets if I can get away with it? Just want to make sure I have everything I need and the best approach to this because I am really on a budget here (college, gotta love it).
Concerning gaskets, I believe that you will need all new gaskets with one possible exception. The valve cover gaskets may be able to be reused if they do not have some type of defect such as being pinched if slipped out of place. Concerning the oil and coolant, it all depends on the cleanliness factor including having the proper storage containers with lids and being meticulous in keeping everything 100 percent clean. As far as draining the oil into an open top container and placing it over to the side is unsatisfactory. Having a FSM to guide you would be a big plus.
So I really cant reuse the LIM and UIM even if its brand new less than 300 miles on them? I can't just clean them off and clean the surface again? I am sure they are in good condition still.
