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Old 06-22-2015, 11:48 AM   #1
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Question Knock sensor code and now no start, pcm fried ?

This is a continuation on a thread i posted this on another site and am getting no help .

For the past couple weeks a couple times it threw a code 0327 knock sensor bank 1 code, i didnt detect any pinging or knocking in the motor at all, it ran really good and i cleared the code out, the third time i replaced the sensor last weekend and the code didnt come back at least the check engine light hasnt come on, went to start it last night and it just cranks and doesnt start. No dummy light on, hooked up scanner and the 327 code is there. Would the knock sensor goin out cause a no start or is it perhaps the crank sensor ? I take it there are 2 sensors ? the one i replaced was the one above the oil filter, theres another on the back side somewheres ? That would be bank 2 ?


Welp upon further investigation i tested the voltage to the sensor and it was 0.01 , i found also that my fuel pump fuse was blown and after replacing the fuse several times and blowing it out that my shield for my cold air intake filter come loose and across the pcms wiring and laid a few bare spots down on several of the wires thus most likely shorting something out in the computer. Is there a way to test the pcm out ? Its not throwing and codes or pcm code. Would disconnecting the battery for 5 min or so reset the computer ?

I opened up the computer and dont see anything burnt up or melted together. Found 3 bad solder points though im gonna have to re solder up, but i doubt those are result of my issue though.

I had the shield for the filter tied back closer to the headlight, it musta broke and fell off. Heres sum pix:

buick pcm - Album on Imgur

** all other fuses are good and i swapped the fule pump relay around to no avail .

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Old 06-22-2015, 01:01 PM   #2
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Just put everything back together with the same results.
I take it the fuel pump fuse ties into the relay and the relay wiring goes to the pcm ?
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:25 PM   #3
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I wonder if the pcm is good and perhaps just something shorted out to the fuel pump fuse or relay ? Is there a fuseable link to it somewheres to check ?
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NasTraDooMis View Post
I wonder if the pcm is good and perhaps just something shorted out to the fuel pump fuse or relay ? Is there a fuseable link to it somewheres to check ?
I tested the fuel pump relay at the pdc, am getting 12v to low side pin87, testing pin 86 for ground resulted in a big fat 0, test pin 85 with key on = no voltage present, checking 85 for pcm 2 sec prime cranking and key off bak on = no reading at all. So result of that = bad bias voltage in pcm ? Some resistors blown ? Im assuming so cause of the no voltage to the knock sensor either.

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Old 06-22-2015, 04:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
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I tested the fuel pump relay at the pdc, am getting 12v to low side pin87, testing pin 86 for ground resulted in a big fat 0, test pin 85 with key on = no voltage present, checking 85 for pcm 2 sec prime cranking and key off bak on = no reading at all. So result of that = bad bias voltage in pcm ? Some resistors blown ? Im assuming so cause of the no voltage to the knock sensor either.
I meant " checking 85 for pcm 2 sec prime cranking and key off back on = no volt reading (or test light) at all.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:45 PM   #6
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Well, we are now at an unknown state with the PCM. Due to corrosion and loose pins inside the PCM, a no start condition, no fuel pump and chaffed PCM wires, we can just assume the worst. You might as well consider the PCM toast and get a new one. I know its not good to use the parts cannon, but unless you are super awesome with a Power Probe and schematics you could eliminate the PCM as a suspect.

So you might as well start there.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:18 PM   #7
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Well, we are now at an unknown state with the PCM. Due to corrosion and loose pins inside the PCM, a no start condition, no fuel pump and chaffed PCM wires, we can just assume the worst. You might as well consider the PCM toast and get a new one. I know its not good to use the parts cannon, but unless you are super awesome with a Power Probe and schematics you could eliminate the PCM as a suspect.

So you might as well start there.
Yep, gonna have get a puter, i found this one for 80 and they program it, they have 99.9% good feedback so i hope i dont get an isuue.

Century 2003 2004 05 Engine Computer PCM ECM 12583827 Programmed to Your Vin | eBay
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:28 PM   #8
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Yep, gonna have get a puter, i found this one for 80 and they program it, they have 99.9% good feedback so i hope i dont get an isuue.

Century 2003 2004 05 Engine Computer PCM ECM 12583827 Programmed to Your Vin | eBay
Im betting it was just a couple burned out resistors- theres like 200 of em though, i could check em all but i dont know what the resistance and ohms should be of those. I did check the capacitor, its a 50v 100uf, tested uf was 98.7 uf .

Could be a burned out chip too.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:59 PM   #9
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I wonder if also the bcm might be causing issue too ? I have found also that from the interior fuse panel the fuse for bcm/pcm is not getting any power to at all with key on in run position. And when i lock doors with remote only the headlights flash instead of both headlights and tail lights.
If the pcm or bcm would be screwed up would the not throw a bunch of codes ?
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:11 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by NasTraDooMis View Post
I wonder if also the bcm might be causing issue too ? I have found also that from the interior fuse panel the fuse for bcm/pcm is not getting any power to at all with key on in run position. And when i lock doors with remote only the headlights flash instead of both headlights and tail lights.
If the pcm or bcm would be screwed up would the not throw a bunch of codes ?
Tail light fuse was blown also. Would all these fuses popping be caused from a shorted out pcm ?
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