When I say it’* all over the place that’* with me not even giving it gas, it’* literally that high in rpm it just continues to accelerate, so it’ll read say 20% when I am giving it gas, but if I let off to come to a stop it’* bouncing around and then when I do stop it’ll bounce around from like 0.8-15% As for the maf and map readings I understand what youre saying but you can see that the car isn’t at “idle” I can’t get it to idle, that 1600 rpm’* is in park with no foot on the gas pedal so the numbers are going to be higher

Unplug the TPS and start the vehicle. Did it code?

Yes it threw the p0122 code right away

I feel like we're chasing the TPS etc. while something basic is wrong.

With no load and no throttle input (therefore [idle] is expected), with same air past butterfly and IAC, if it were commanding less fuel and delivering less fuel, it would stall or run rough and set a code.

With no load and no throttle input (therefore [idle] is expected), with same air past butterfly and IAC, if it were commanding less fuel and delivering same or more fuel, it would stall or run rough, and smell like raw gas whenever it is running and set a code.

With no load and no throttle input (therefore [idle] is expected), with same air past butterfly and IAC, if it were commanding more fuel and delivering same or less fuel, it would run rough or stall and it would set a code.

With no load and no throttle input (therefore [idle] is expected), with same air past butterfly and IAC, if it were commanding more fuel and delivering more fuel, it would probably rev much more than that in Park, would smell like raw gas whenever it is running, might stall or run rough, and it would set a code.

I don't see any codes or symptoms like this.

If it has air restricted, it would run slower, maybe rough, and maybe stall.

If it has air unrestricted, it would run faster, and at no-load wouldn't likely lean out enough to matter at the reported RPMs.

If it were some other thing, why wouldn't it choose to go to 5,000RPM or 12,000RPM or something?

Personally, I'm guessing the IAC is not controlling properly. The IAC air circuit can supply enough air to do the reported RPMs with no load on the engine. Maybe it is commanded properly and responds to commands. Maybe the pintle isn't sealing. Without measuring movement I don't know that it is doing its job properly.

Could try slathering some chalk on the pintle, then reinstalling it, then cycling the ignition a couple of times, and see how much chalk gets transferred.

Could also try plugging off the IAC passage and see if it will run at all.

I’m not gonna replace the tps anymore, I’m moving on to the IAC. I did have that removed the other day and left it plugged it and cycle the key on and off and the piston does move, that doesn’t mean it’* moving to the correct position when it’* being commanded. I had a MAF low frequency code yesterday but I think that was from me having everything unplugged and I may have unplugged it with the tool hooked up and didn’t realize it so I cleared that and I’m waiting to see if it comes back, I’m gonna order a new IAC. My brother was over with me yesterday looking over things with me, he’* better than me at this stuff. We started with the basics again and sprayed carb cleaner all around the engine to rule out vacuum leaks and again nothing happened. He did unplug the MAF when the car was running and it only slightly dipped in rpm’* and stayed running smoothly, he said that it should run rougher than that when that happens. Not sure if that’* true but he suggests to try a new or known good MAF flow the junkyard

I don't think we are doing any decent testing. I don't think it'* the TPS but if the scan tool shows it going all over the place I suspect a wiring issue.

I have done a lot of testing if you recall some other reply’*, I’ve tested the tps hooked up with the multimeter. I get 4.7 volts on the reference side with a smooth increase and decrease, .43 at closed and 4.7 WOT, I’ve done that on every tps I’ve installed so far. I’ve pulled the PCM and checked continuity on all sensors (MAF, MAP,IAC, TPS,EGR,IAT) all tested good. Pulled the wire looms apart and checked for corrosion, cleaned PCV, checked multiple times for vacuum leaks, cleaned throttle body. I’m not a mechanic but I feel I’ve been as thorough as I can be with what I have. I appreciate any other testing ideas from you guys that you think I may be able to do. Thanks

I don't understand. You say the TPS bounces all over the place and yet it'* perfect. I do not know if you need to take a break but you are not making a lot of sense.

Bad MAF will lead to codes, bad behavior, and sometimes severe sluggishness. I've never seen a MAF do anything that would cause your current symptoms.

A lot of air is required to idle that high and run smoothly.

If the excess air is not air that is coming from the IAC, then it is coming from somewhere else. If this is the case, plugging off the IAC passages would still allow it to run. If the IAC is being commanded to 700RPM and it is actually idling at 1,600RPM, then with a plugged-off IAC tract, it should still run at about 900RPM.

If the excess air is coming from the IAC, then the same test will not allow the engine to start or idle without assistance from a human with opening the throttle plate a teeny tiny bit.

Seems like a good test to me.

Remember, it is not a diesel. The PCM will do its best to keep the mixture proper for the conditions in which it finds itself. If it finds itself unloaded at 1,600RPM at a certain temperature and air pressure and catalytic temperature etc. etc. it will follow the appropriate fuel map etc. Whether or not the 1,600RPM is appropriate for what the IAC is commanded to is not something that it ponders. Same goes for engine braking in gear going downhill.

A diesel idling at 1,600RPM when 700RPM is called for would just cut fuel until engine speed dropped to the correct level.