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Old 11-04-2014, 12:22 AM   #21
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^^ Do I still get to the compressor from the bottom, or through the passenger wheelwell with tire removed?

Here'* a kit I just found on eBay that appears to include the compressor & dryer for $150. Any other random small parts I would need?
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Old 11-04-2014, 12:32 AM   #22
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Yeah if you remove the passenger wheel and the wheel splash panel it'* right there.
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Old 11-04-2014, 12:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydl View Post
^^ Do I still get to the compressor from the bottom, or through the passenger wheelwell with tire removed?

Here'* a kit I just found on eBay that appears to include the compressor & dryer for $150. Any other random small parts I would need?
That kit doesn't look like it comes with oil or the fluid to flush the lines. And you obviously going to need freon. I would suggest freon with the leak dye. Make is easy to find leaks in the future.
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:49 PM   #24
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I don't think I can justify repairing the A/C. Options seem to range from $400-600 depending on where the parts come from... either way too much money for a luxury feature that I won't need for 5-6 months, on a cheap car that I only drive back/forth to work (no long trips). The gut punch is that regardless I still have to pay $200 ($150 labor plus a $40-50 pulley) just to REMOVE my A/C and install the pulley. :P Unless I can figure out Tech II'* suggestion here.

I took the Buick to local garage mechanic that was recommended, and he seems to have a lots of experience and know-how but still is not cheap ($70/hour). He informed me, and I already suspected this, that my LeSabre'* upper and lower intake manifold gaskets are both leaking. That'* a 6-7 hour job (so says he) which IMO outranks A/C anyway.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:31 AM   #25
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hello crack the ac line on back of AC compressor so it discharges slow put the lines in a few zip lock bags wrap tight.
put some wire around it and tie it to the sub frame out of the way
Order a pulley on line 25 bucks
Go to your church ask them for shade tree mechanic
if you don't want to do it
There is plenty of retied guys that can work on you car at there house
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:36 AM   #26
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The metal is from the bearing coming apart there is no fixing it only replacing it
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:54 PM   #27
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Strangely enough, now the noise has stopped and the belt is spinning fine. I'm sure the issue will return but it seems strange that it went away. On another forum (I like you guys but I did post my question someplace else too ) it was mentioned that the metal shavings plug the air hole and THAT makes the noise, and the clutch plate can be removed/cleaned to solve it? Maybe but obviously the metal shavings are coming from somewhere.

I'm still in favor of installing the bypass pulley and don't mind attempting that myself, but only once it'* fairly clear that the A/C functioning cannot be saved.
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:59 PM   #28
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Usually metal particles are from the clutch plates themselves from grinding against each other. Which is normal under normal circumstances.

Can you post pics?
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:03 PM   #29
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See my photo on the bottom of page 1 here.
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:23 PM   #30
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Yea, your looks like its out of adjustment...

read here....

https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-1...-plate-278951/
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