99 Park Ave Leaking A/C Compressor - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-16-2012, 08:56 AM   #11
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Most sellers also only provide a 3 month warranty, so how much can you justify for 90 days of coverage. I was already planing to replace the accumulator and orifice tube, they are a fraction of the cost of the compressor. Almost everywhere I've looked recommends replacing the accumulator in order to get fresh desiccant in the system. As far as flushing, I'm still on the fence as to how much aggravation it'* worth. We already know that the condenser on these cars is parallel flow and can't be flushed. I can see how the extra security of a filter and flushing the evaporator may be worth it. Actually pursuing the warranty in the event of a compressor failure would probably turn out to be a nightmare on something like this.

As for the filter, anyone use one of these: http://autoacrepairs.com/ac_in_line_filter.htm
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:53 PM   #12
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Hi All,

I know it has been a few days since I posted, but I've been doing some research.

I decided to purchase a New OEM CS20009 Delphi Compressor and Delphi AD10002 Accumulator and an AC Delco 15-5653 Orfice. I also plan to replace any O-rings that I come upon and coat them with NYLOG RT201B Sealant/Assembly lube which I have seen recommended on some A/C forums.

I've scrapped the idea of installing an inline filter. I decided this because the compressor didn't seize and see no reason to induce the added potential for leaks into the system.

The last item I have not come to terms with is Flushing. I know Mike1995 has indicated that flushing is not necessary if the system has been under pressure. The problem is, it has not been pressurized due to the leaking compressor seal. The system has had no pressure for at least 2 1/2 years, probably 3 or 4. Some people claim that the PAG150 oil will collect moisture during this time and become acidic when mixed with refrigerant and that the only way to correct this is to flush it out, because the water combines with the oil at the molecular level. Others claim that leaving the system under a deep vacuum for several hours is sufficient.

While there are several posts on A/C forums about flushing, these forums are all associated with companies that sell A/C parts. I feel there is a conflict of interest here, and that they want to sell the stuff to flush with. I find it of no co-incidence that they all bash the aerosol flush kits that the local parts stores sell for around $17, but want you to purchase a $40 flush gun and the smallest quantity of flush they sell is a gallon at $80.

How concerned should I actually be about flushing? I'm looking for another 5 - 7 years out of this vehicle. I have no intention of attempting to flush the parallel flow condenser. I would entertain flushing the evaporator and tubing I have access to, but fear it will yield more problems then it fixes. I have access to compressed air, but not dry compressed air (yep it'* humid here in Buffalo already!). I've also heard a lot of people mention flushing with plain old Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner. Thoughts anyone?
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:07 PM   #13
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Frankly, in all my years, this is the first I have ever heard of flushing an A/C system. I'm not familiar with the chemical composition of R134, PAG oil and how it reacts with other chemicals. IMHO, if the system has never been open to the elements(I mean lines DISCONNECTED and left open) then I really see no reason to flush it. How often have you heard of flushing an engine during an oil change? Or flushing the trans? (i'm not counting the 20 minute jobbers at QuickLube, they suck anyway).

But I agree, it seems there is a conflict of interest and a good marketing scheme to sell more.

When vacuuming is done, it boils off any moisture in the system anyway. So really, whats the flush for?
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:25 PM   #14
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Hmm,

After a lot of reading it seems there is some mixed information on the whole PAG oil becoming acidic. I believe there may be misinformation put out there either intentionally or accidentally. POE oil does have this nasty reaction, via a hydrolysis reaction (Hydrolysis– decomposition of a compound by reaction with water. In the case of POE oil, it decomposes into partial esters, organic acid and alcohol in the presence of water.)

PAG oil does not undergo hydrolysis when exposed to moisture, but it is hygroscopic.

Check here: http://sporlanonline.com/November%20...Cold%20WAR.pdf

Then again, I just came across a document from Carrier, indicating that PAG oil becomes acidic when it absorbs moisture.

All this information and I'm not sure what is true anymore. Logic would dictate that pulling a deep vacuum for a long time will likely avoid most problems.
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:15 PM   #15
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If I gather the way A/C systems are brought online is, the vacuum does 2 things...

1. It boils off the moisture inside the system.
2. With the system under a vacuum, this allows the introduction of PAG oil and R134 to be introduced into the system without the system being overpressurized via the compressed cans of R134. If the system is falsely pressurized, the pressure switch would indicate a normal pressure and would allow the compressor to turn on.

Am I thinking correctly?
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:43 PM   #16
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I think you are correct. I'm not positive about the effects of #2, but #1 is absolutely critical in my understanding, and as several have said, there is no such thing as too much vacuum when evacuating an A/C system. Now as far as the whole moisture in PAG thing, there is a very in depth thread about the hygroscopic properties of PAG oil located here: http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...E=&STARTPAGE=2

There is no mention of acidity anywhere that I noticed. In R12 systems, this was a problem and it seems somebody or some marketing team carried the notion over. We can all admit it is good to get moisture out of the system, but it doesn't seem like the risk of acid eating up the systems components are an issue with R134A and PAG oil (POE is a different story).
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:30 PM   #17
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Wow, what an argument in that forum. Of course, half the stuff I decided not to understand. If you want, I can try and scan the pages from my 95 service manual about the proper procedures for an opened system.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:45 PM   #18
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I have a Haynes repair manual that covers the basics and after all this reading, I think that unless I find some compelling reason that indicates the system is contaminated with metal shavings, the vacuum should be sufficient to evacuate moisture out.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R2D2B9 View Post
I have a Haynes repair manual that covers the basics and after all this reading, I think that unless I find some compelling reason that indicates the system is contaminated with metal shavings, the vacuum should be sufficient to evacuate moisture out.
I see no reason either. Keep us posted please.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:08 PM   #20
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Did the compressor this weekend. The compressor came out the passenger side wheel well without any problems. I then systematically removed each line and flushed it with some Interdynamics Professional-Grade Aerosol Power Clean and Flush (except for the line with the muffler in it). The orfice tube showed a couple very small metal flakes, but nothing major. I replaced all the o-rings and coated them with NYLOG sealant and re-assembled the whole system with new accumulator and orfice tube. Pulled a deep vacuum and charged it up today and it is an ice cold 40 deg. Hopefully it stays this way for a long time.
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