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Old 08-03-2012, 08:02 PM   #21
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Well i guess the problem is me. There are 3 grounds attatched to the engine block on the front drivers side. I only remember taking 2 off. I found the third one and attached it. Electrical systems work normal now. I have never experienced things that stay ON without a ground.

Engine fired and fluids topped off. It idles as if it has a vaccum leak, but what ive read is that it will do that untill the computer re-learns. Sound about right?

The other problem tho is that no movement. Foreward, reverse, 3, 2, 1. Nothing. No noises, no change in idle, just nothing. This engine/trans drove the wrecked car it came out of into the shop for removal. Before installing i changed the filter. I read that it taked 7 quarts to fill it back up. So i added 5, then topped off after it was running. It ended up drinking almost 8. Could idling 3 qts low for 5-10 minutes while checking and adding burn up a trans?

Is there any way an electrical problem could cause this condition?

The check engine light is on like it was before. So im sure i need to reset the codes and see if anything else trips the light but i am out of cash untill next friday.

Feeling a little defeated. I was really looking foreward to driving around the block.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:14 PM   #22
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Things can get really hard to diagnose after a swap. There is no telling what happened during the reinstall. As far as the trans, make sure the electrical connector is connected.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:42 PM   #23
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I have inspected the connector and re-connected. Being an electronically controlled trans, could this condition be possible if my no-ground condition damaged a solenoid or somthing? I have rebuilt the trans on my 96 dakota and without the electrical connector connected, the 42RE would still go into manual first and reverse but thats it.

Sucks that i blew my whole budget and cant afford the tools to properly diagnose the problem. I dont even have a gauge to test pump pressure.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:22 AM   #24
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Umm, this may seem like a dumb question, but did you connect the torque converter?
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:11 PM   #25
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I have not had this engine/trans combo seperated. I got them as a unit and installed them that way. It is an asumption that they would still be connected.

I pulled the gauge off of my air compressor to plug into the pressure port and found zero pressure. I am going to make an asumption that the selonoid is only able to vary line pressure by a certain % and not capable of dumping all line pressure. My course of action is to first verify that the filter i installed is still snug up in its hole and not cracked or somehow otherwise defective. If all that checks out like i think it will, next thing to examine is the pump.

4T65E Tranny Lost all FWD GEARS and REV all the sudden NO CODES

This guy Doingtime from helpwrench dot com thought outside of the box and replaced the pump and more with the engine still in the vehicle. Since i just swapped the drivetrain, it is probably only a marginal labor savings, but i am going to use his procedure just to prove it can be done. After multiple google searches, he is the only one ive found to diagnose internal tranny problems in the car. EVERYONE else says that it has to be removed.

Just like everyone else told me that the engine/tranny can not be r&r out the top.

This could be usefull to people that want to replace faulty solenoids. I will try to take alot of pics and maby a writeup can be put in the trans tech section
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:10 PM   #26
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Break time due to rain .... good, we nee it.

Well i got the cover and pump off without removing the trans. Its a bit of a pain, but way easier then pulling the whole tranny out. The pump is in great shape. Not only that, but it is a vane pump, not the gearotor kind i am used to seeing. This type of pump is incredibly tolerant to wear.

+1 for GM over the mopars i normally work on.

Now for that asumption about the torque convertor. I believe i am going to pull the starter to check on that. When i got the engine, the starter did not come with it. I never looked, but i guess it is possible that those bolts were robbed for another job at the shop.

If thats not it, i am throwing in the towel on this unit and will just put the original trans back in. I know for a fact that it works properly.


If it is in fact those convertor bolts then, mike, i owe you a drink and an apology for dismissing your thought so quickly.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:03 PM   #27
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Thing of it is though, even with no electrical connection from the PCM, the transmission will default itself into "limp home" mode which starts out only in 3rd gear.

I'll take the drink, but no apology needed sir. We all have our stressed out days working on things that we can't diagnose. I know, its stressing. Just keep your chin up and keep us posted.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:48 PM   #28
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What happens when we assume?

Wasted around 5 hours of work and now i have a leak on the trans end cover, but it runs. And it goes. And without an air filter on it, that supercharger sounds mean as all hell. Tomorrow, i try to seal up that leak. Monday, go get the title and 30 day tag so i can road test.

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Old 08-04-2012, 09:59 PM   #29
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Those look like uninstalled torque converter bolts. Yes no?
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:22 PM   #30
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Indeed. Three pretty imporntant bolts. Im rather suprised i did not notice them missing. I went over this motor pretty good before installing.

Live and learn. It still needs some work, but i am really happy i dont have to go to bed with the anxiety of not knowing WTF is wrong.
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