2003 Century - heat & defrost requires 30 minutes - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-28-2011, 07:29 AM   #1
PaulBennett
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Default 2003 Century - heat & defrost requires 30 minutes

Car works great, no issues, outside temp 30-40F, engine starts easily and when hot air finally pours out there is vast quantities. A/C also works well when called upon.

The temperature gauge indicates a normally opening thermostat, comes up and levels out about halfway to the store. Do some shopping and return home and still no heat. If I include another store extending the whole trip to about 30 minutes, it works great. I just don't feel this exaggerated wait to clear the windshield with hot hair is normal.

My older MB reroutes heater air when you press 'defrost' and starts clearing the window within 3 blocks of leaving home so I'm spoiled.

What could be changed to get a more useable defrost than having to warm up the car for 1/2 hour before driving it? Is the a/c full-blasting the heater core to dehumidify the air?

My only answer involves vigorous use of 2 bath towel and continuous wiping or the inner windshield.

Thanks for any clues or intuitions about operation.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:52 AM   #2
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Sounds like a heater core problem. You might have air trapped in there. If the gauge looks like it heats up normally, then you can rule out the thermostat. That was gonna be my first guess. If you watch the gauge closely, and it bounces around a lot when warm, I'd suspect air trapped in the system.
If bleeding the system of air first doesn't work, I would recommend flushing the system. There could be some crud backed up in the heater core, that is making it tough for the warm coolant to get in there.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:17 AM   #3
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I added a quart of antifreeze although it didn't look to be low. I made a noticeable difference so I can only conclude the 'air trapped in the system' was part of the problem. Didn't burp it as I must for other cars, so the additional fluid must be necessary to incorporate hot water into the circuit which includes the heater.

In the process, I learned there is a radiator cap on both the radiator and the expansion tank so this summer I will replace both with proper 1.1 units. Secondly, upon opening the radiator tank cap, I noticed considerable jellylike crap, most best described like dirty vasoline, lining much of the immediate area. This will trigger a flush (again when the weather permits). Don't know how this stuff was injected but a cooling system must be clean to work.

My engine was replaced shortly before my purchase and the car engine area kept pristine and I like to maintain it so. Fryed eyes afd a doable challandge. That why I was surprised by the gunky crap. Obviously something done during engine exchange, a old timers trick of sorts.

Back to being please with the simple no-frills Century. Nine years and newish still newish. K&N purple snout added. Only con-the previous owner smoked (government worker) and left burn marks in the most inappropriate places. Perfection comes to the wicked and to those who with large pocketbooks. I have both.

Color me pleased - 5 stars
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:37 AM   #4
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if you have the 6cyl it has bleeder screws, if your looking at the front of the car there is one front left on the crossover and another on the right. the most logical theory ive heard from the chocolate is the factory put sealant in all the 60deg engines when they were having the gasket issues. i had a 03 monte with that engine i bought was less than a year old and by the time i put 30k the whole tank and everything was all stained. i flushed it a bunch of times, put prestone extended life and flushed it every other year for 165k miles and it always came back. same with my moms impala.

if your heat doesnt work good i usually rig up something on the core hoses so i can flush it both ways with the garden hose, that usually gets the garbage out.
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