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2000 Buick Park Avenue brake pull

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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 10:52 AM
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Default 2000 Buick Park Avenue brake pull

Hello, need some help. When I press the brake it pulls to the left but steers to the right. Just put new wheel hub on right front and trailing arms then an alignment. In the past year and half put new CV joints, both front wheel hubs, struts & shocks, outer tie rods, rotors and brake pads. Replaced calipers and front brake hoses and bled brakes a few times. Seems to have started after repairing a broken left front brake line. Not sure if that was the issue. Not sure how to test / check control arm bushing*. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Tom
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by thomasfreese
When I press the brake it pulls to the left but steers to the right.
So . . . it normally pulls to the right when not braking and then when braking it pulls to the left?

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
Just put new wheel hub on right front and trailing arms then an alignment. In the past year and half . . . both front wheel hubs
The right front needed two hubs in 18 months?

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
then an alignment.
Did it pull to the right (when not braking) after the alignment?

A good alignment would never have a pull left over.

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
Replaced calipers and front brake hoses and bled brakes a few times. Seems to have started after repairing a broken left front brake line.
So . . . from this I get either (1) you replaced both front calipers and brake lines then later repaired a broken left-front brake line . . . or (2) while replacing both front brake lines, the left-front brake line became damaged and you repaired it . . . or (3) the left-front brake line was damaged and so you replaced both front brake lines . . . ?

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
Not sure how to test / check control arm bushing*.
These should have been checked as part of the alignment.

Last edited by CathedralCub; Nov 3, 2019 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Changed an "I" to a "i"
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 01:47 PM
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Hey Tom, you have ad tracking turned on in your browser...you have to disable Viglink....

go here to disable it. It will prevent links from showing up in your post like the one in your first post.

https://www.viglink.com/opt-out
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 03:23 PM
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Use a pry bar to load the bushings. You'll find the bad one(*).
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 07:48 PM
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It drives straight and pulls to the left steers to the right only when medium to hard pedal is applied. The wheel hubs were replaced in a pair and one failed after 35,000 miles. Also struts & shocks, outer tie rod ends, CV joints and tires were put on at the same time as the hubs with an alignment then too. A month after that I had the transmission rebuilt. Fast forward 18 months later... When the brake line started leaking I repaired it, replaced the right front hub, new pads all around, both trailing arms and an alignment. That was a month ago. In the last three days have since replaced both front hoses with new ones, the front calipers with good used ones and a good used master cylinder, new rotors and new pads on the back with no change. The front rotors and pads are good and wearing evenly. Bled the system 4 times manually. I haven't checked the control arms or ball joints but the car rides smooth no clunking noises. Just the pulling issue.
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 08:47 PM
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You likely have a suspension bushing that'* bad. Use a pry bar on it.
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Old Nov 3, 2019 | 11:07 PM
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I wonder how a quality alignment was done without detecting bad joints/bushings/etc.
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Old Nov 4, 2019 | 07:29 AM
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I will look at it again today.Thanks
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Old Nov 4, 2019 | 12:45 PM
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Jacked up the car and did the 25 mph hitting the brakes over 15 times and re-bled the brakes again with no change. Don't have an ABS brake bleed scan tool. Control arms & ball joints look good. Even rotated the tires. No change. No clue anymore.
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Old Nov 4, 2019 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by thomasfreese
Jacked up the car and did the 25 mph hitting the brakes over 15 times
. . . with the car jacked up???

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
and re-bled the brakes again with no change.
So, you bled them until the fluid had no air in it plus a few full strokes of the brake pedal (also with no air)?

All four of them?

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
Control arms & ball joints look good.
So you pried on them while looking closely at the joints and not even the slightest movement was seen?

Originally Posted by thomasfreese
No clue anymore.
I'm concerned that the "good used" calipers aren't "known good". The only way to know for sure that the calipers are good is to have driven the car they came off of before they were taken off. Were you able to do this?
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