1999 LeSabre coolant in the cylinders!!! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Buick When starting new posts, please specify YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, ENGINE type, and whatever modifications you have made.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-01-2010, 09:14 AM   #21
Retired Senior Admin

Expert Gearhead
 
Danthurs's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Danthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to all
Default

Yes, the front O2, the rear O2 only monitors the cat and wont cause any drivability problems. Spark plug wires are high energy wires, and having them touch another wire can cause leakage between the wires. I even blew fuses because I had plug wires in contact with the wiring harness. The leakage will cause odd signals, and the O2 sensor signals are needed to set the AFR. But so far what you describe I'm thinking bad spark. Also check for vacuum leaks. Check around the EGR tube, injector O rings, gaskets, everything. That could explain your idle problem.
Danthurs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 09:30 AM   #22
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
dannymac is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks again---more questions for you---what is the AFR? also, what coule be the causes for bad spark? Wires too close together? Bad wire? Fouled plug? I have looked for vacuum leaks, but will look again.

how do I clean the front o2 sensor? Remove and spray with brake cleaner?

any thoughts on the coolant system not building pressure and only climbing to 160 degress? Air pocket somewhere??

thanks again--
dannymac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 09:44 AM   #23
Retired Senior Admin

Expert Gearhead
 
Danthurs's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Danthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to all
Default

AFR is Air Fuel Ratio.

Bad spark can be bad plugs, bad wires, bad coil, arching wire. Take a spray bottle and mist the wires and coil with water when it'* dark, turn off all the lights and watch for blue flashing.

You clean the O2 sensor by taking it out and putting a new one in. sorry, they don't clean well.

Low coolant temp suggests to me a stuck open thermostat. Air pockets would cause over heating or fluctuating temps.
Danthurs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 09:49 AM   #24
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
dannymac is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks Dan---You're the man!!

I so appreciate your help and brain, and will keep updating my progress.

One thing that is curious---the car ran perfect before it suddenly hydro-locked. No skip, hesitation or bucking. I wonder what I may have done to cause this new issue. The foulded o2 sensor makes sense, but the plugs are new, and the wires/coils never had an issue before.

More troubleshooting for me!! at least it is running!!
dannymac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 09:52 AM   #25
Retired Senior Admin

Expert Gearhead
 
Danthurs's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Danthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to allDanthurs is a name known to all
Default

Get the car scanned, there should be some P030X cod(*) Where the X is will be the cylinder number, ie, P0303 is cylinder 3. A P0300 code is random misfire.
Danthurs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 10:01 AM   #26
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Playing another side of the coin here. How dirty does your finger get if you touch the vacuum connector at the throttle body? Those are a common vacuum leak area. Also since you swapped in the new parts big hose from the brake booster to the intake. Double check that and the little nipple off it should have a vacuum line hooked up as well. Double check that there are two o-rings at the pcv. One under it and one at the cap for the map sensor right above it.

The high idle is sounding like a vacuum leak.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2010, 08:14 AM   #27
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
dannymac is on a distinguished road
Default

Well, new day, new LeSabre updates!!

I am happy to report that the stuttereing was caused by a bad plug. It was bent so bad the gap was non-existant. I was glad to find it. No more check engine light flashing or check engine at all. So, the Buick runs like a champ now even after my LIM gasket and UIM replacement.

However, the high idle problem is still there, around 1100rpm even when hot. I triple checked every vacuum line and connection, and sprayed them all with carb cleaner, but no change in the idle and they all seemed tight. I tried to manually adjust the idle, but it won't change.

My thoughts are like this---the throttle body was quite dirty, black with carbon. Perhaps in the recent repair, when I wiped out the UIM side of the TB I left a piece of debris in there, and it is stuck open a bit. I will remove it tonite and give it a good cleaning, but besides that, I am running out of ideas.

also---even with a new 195 degree thermostat, the car never reads above 160 on the gauge. the system also doesn't build pressure. Perhaps that thermostat is bad, or stuck open. I tried to burp it last night by opening the valve on the therm, housing, and did get some air out, but still it won't heat up. The car has been in the family since this spring and never got hotter than 160 according to my lady. Perhaps these cars run cool and don't build pressure in the cooling system?

thanks all for your help and your site in general. i wouldn't have had the info or courage to do the job I just did without this site and the folks who contribute. Information certainly is power.
dannymac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2010, 09:37 AM   #28
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Is the seal around the T stat in place? There'* one of two things happening here. If there is no check engine light then the pcm is seeing a temp of at least 160F. Might be a bad temp sensor, in our sensor for temp there are two elements. One for the pcm and one for the dash gauge.

If the system isn't building pressure, it'* time to check the radiator cap. You should have pressure.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2010, 04:08 PM   #29
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
dannymac is on a distinguished road
Default

Is there a way to test the temp sensor to see if it is within spec? Like disconnect it and connect a voltmeter to it?? i will also look into the cap. Easy enough to replace.

thanks so much!!
dannymac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2010, 09:29 AM   #30
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
dannymac is on a distinguished road
Default

More thoughts----

My girl drove her LeSabre last night for the first time since I replaced the LIM gaskets and the UIM. She siad it drove and behaved EXACTLY as it had before the repair. She was thrilled. It leads me to belive that the high idle and low operating temp was a condition that existed before the UIM failed.

The Temp gauge still never reads above 160, and the idle never drops below 1000rpm, even when hot. also, I noticed the fans were both running even when the engine was ice cold??

I found a spec sheet for the ECT sensor, and will check it tonite. I am thinking it is out of whack, or with the fans coming on early it is disconnected or has a bad connection. Am I on the right track??
dannymac is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
coolant in cylinders dcmaker 1992-1999 7 04-19-2009 03:29 PM
coolant in cylinders jds 1992-1999 11 08-07-2006 11:49 AM
oil in cylinders?? RPSSEI 1992-1999 4 04-05-2005 03:38 AM
Need part # confirmation for brake shoes and wheel cylinders toxictelevision 1992-1999 2 04-16-2004 07:08 PM
Need to find new brake shoes and wheel cylinders for rear.. toxictelevision 1992-1999 1 04-15-2004 01:51 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:38 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.