1995 S/C Riviera heating issue?
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Windsor, Ontario / Detroit, Michigan
I don't think this is a crank shaft position sensor. When they fail it shuts your engine down. You don't get the performance issues he describes. My guess is the scan shows a random misfire, and it could be ICM or fuel pump.
Check for fuel pressure. That will be easier than finding a scanner for your car.
Check for fuel pressure. That will be easier than finding a scanner for your car.
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A few questions...
Is there anything off a 1988-89 LeSabre engine that can be used on the '95 */C engine? I have a spare 3800 in storage, in pieces. I also have extra parts, like the Harmonic Balancer, more than likely a crank sensor, and most importantly, the ICM. That is, IF it is compatible. I figured the only difference between the 2 is the */C.
I'm worried about this '95...I was hoping to have this car long enough to have the body rot out and make the engine swap to my LeSabre T-Type. However, now I'm quite so sure I want a '95 engine in the LeSabre. Too many hiccups, at least that'* what I'm reading in the forums.
I appreciate any and ALL the help you guys can provide me. I'm new to the supercharged world of GM, and right now, I'm a little intimidated by it just from this car and the high price of the replacement parts.
Is there anything off a 1988-89 LeSabre engine that can be used on the '95 */C engine? I have a spare 3800 in storage, in pieces. I also have extra parts, like the Harmonic Balancer, more than likely a crank sensor, and most importantly, the ICM. That is, IF it is compatible. I figured the only difference between the 2 is the */C.
I'm worried about this '95...I was hoping to have this car long enough to have the body rot out and make the engine swap to my LeSabre T-Type. However, now I'm quite so sure I want a '95 engine in the LeSabre. Too many hiccups, at least that'* what I'm reading in the forums.
I appreciate any and ALL the help you guys can provide me. I'm new to the supercharged world of GM, and right now, I'm a little intimidated by it just from this car and the high price of the replacement parts.
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
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A few questions...
Is there anything off a 1988-89 LeSabre engine that can be used on the '95 */C engine? I have a spare 3800 in storage, in pieces. I also have extra parts, like the Harmonic Balancer, more than likely a crank sensor, and most importantly, the ICM. That is, IF it is compatible. I figured the only difference between the 2 is the */C.
I'm worried about this '95...I was hoping to have this car long enough to have the body rot out and make the engine swap to my LeSabre T-Type. However, now I'm NOT quite so sure I want a '95 engine in the LeSabre. Too many hiccups, at least that'* what I'm reading in the forums.
I appreciate any and ALL the help you guys can provide me. I'm new to the supercharged world of GM, and right now, I'm a little intimidated by it just from this car and the high price of the replacement parts.
Is there anything off a 1988-89 LeSabre engine that can be used on the '95 */C engine? I have a spare 3800 in storage, in pieces. I also have extra parts, like the Harmonic Balancer, more than likely a crank sensor, and most importantly, the ICM. That is, IF it is compatible. I figured the only difference between the 2 is the */C.
I'm worried about this '95...I was hoping to have this car long enough to have the body rot out and make the engine swap to my LeSabre T-Type. However, now I'm NOT quite so sure I want a '95 engine in the LeSabre. Too many hiccups, at least that'* what I'm reading in the forums.
I appreciate any and ALL the help you guys can provide me. I'm new to the supercharged world of GM, and right now, I'm a little intimidated by it just from this car and the high price of the replacement parts.
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From: Dark Side, AZ
1995 was the starting year for the Series 2. Wait a minute. The Series 2 L67 didn't come out until 1996, but the Series 2 L36 came out in 1995. How'd you get a L67 in a 95 body? Now I'm confused.
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I unplugged the MAF sensor and the car died. Plugged it back in and it started hard. Took 3 tries to get it running. Idling, it runs smooth for a bit and suddenly something is choking the engine. Give it throttle under the hood and it hesitates and roars.
Someone from another site found this for me to go by:
My car won't stay running for 30 minutes with the choking that'* going on, unless I'm driving it. The highway seems to be the best place for it and with the price of Super unleaded...not sure I want to go that route.
Someone from another site found this for me to go by:
How do you diagnose a bad Ignition Control Module?
A bad ignition module is usually characterized by several frustrating symptoms. A classic example is when the engine will start, but when it gets hot, the ignition module'* electrical properties change, cuasing the car to die suddenly, but restart after several minutes of cooling. Some people have reported pouring cold water on the ignition module causes it to start when hot (mearly by cooling rapidly). Another way to test for this is to allow the engine to run for a total of 30 minutes, then gently tap the module with the back of a screwdriver. If the car fails, this is usually the source. Sometimes the car will not start at all, but this should lead to checking the ignition coil first. This is usually characterized by no spark, no combustion, but good power (or weak power) into the ignition coil. This is usually checked first, as both are common problems, but the ignition coil is usually 1/3 the price (or less) of the (often very pricey) modules (especially for later models). Basically, check for spark, if you dont have any, keep going back until you have checked the ignition coil, distibutor, ignitor, module (in that order) and any grounds, resistors, capacitors, etc. Check all for power in, out, positive, negative, and power out. Use a test light, a voltmeter (multimeter) and get a book for your car from the auto parts store.
A bad ignition module is usually characterized by several frustrating symptoms. A classic example is when the engine will start, but when it gets hot, the ignition module'* electrical properties change, cuasing the car to die suddenly, but restart after several minutes of cooling. Some people have reported pouring cold water on the ignition module causes it to start when hot (mearly by cooling rapidly). Another way to test for this is to allow the engine to run for a total of 30 minutes, then gently tap the module with the back of a screwdriver. If the car fails, this is usually the source. Sometimes the car will not start at all, but this should lead to checking the ignition coil first. This is usually characterized by no spark, no combustion, but good power (or weak power) into the ignition coil. This is usually checked first, as both are common problems, but the ignition coil is usually 1/3 the price (or less) of the (often very pricey) modules (especially for later models). Basically, check for spark, if you dont have any, keep going back until you have checked the ignition coil, distibutor, ignitor, module (in that order) and any grounds, resistors, capacitors, etc. Check all for power in, out, positive, negative, and power out. Use a test light, a voltmeter (multimeter) and get a book for your car from the auto parts store.
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From: muskegon, mi
Shawn, have you checked your fuel pressurre regulator? Pull the hose off it and see if it is wet or smells of fuel. They rarely go bad, but you never know. Remove the MAF and use a cleaner designed for MAF'* and hose it down. It may do wonders. What'* your air filter look like. Don't go by how it appears on top.
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Not sure where to find the fuel pressure regulator...
Cleaned the MAF sensor today, made a little difference. Car still running rough.
Replaced the Ignition Control Module at the same time. Hopefully it'll stay running now instead of dying and needing to cool down before starting again.
How do I test fuel pressure? (Never did it before. Never had too. )
Listened to the fuel pump today...at one point it seemed a little loud, but I know some GM'* are louder than others. My Z24 was VERY loud on some days and quieter on others. Usually hot days were the loudest.
I'm chasing things down slowly. However with a fuel pump being close to $300, I might have to put up with this for another month and a half.
Tomorrow'* the big test. I drive it an hour to Boston, and will quiet possibly get stuck in a little rush hour traffic.
I have high hopes or this car, even if it never gets modded (I at least want to add a Cold Air Intake and an Exhaust). It'* a nice car with a descent body that should last me a good amount of time. I'm hoping to get another 150,000 miles out of it. My Z24 did it with a Twin Cam Quad 4, so the Riv should have no problem.
You guys have been great so far! Thank you ALL for your suggestions and comments!!! I enjoy communities like this. j-body.org is full of young kids who like to flame others just to start an argument. Some of you guys may also want to visit LesabreT.com (another great community), just to lend a helping hand to those who don't know of this site. The LeSabre T-Type was a non-aspirated 3800 and '87 3.8 V6 FWD...should be MUCH easier than diagnosing my Riviera!!!
Thanks again!!!
Cleaned the MAF sensor today, made a little difference. Car still running rough.
Replaced the Ignition Control Module at the same time. Hopefully it'll stay running now instead of dying and needing to cool down before starting again.
How do I test fuel pressure? (Never did it before. Never had too. )
Listened to the fuel pump today...at one point it seemed a little loud, but I know some GM'* are louder than others. My Z24 was VERY loud on some days and quieter on others. Usually hot days were the loudest.
I'm chasing things down slowly. However with a fuel pump being close to $300, I might have to put up with this for another month and a half.
Tomorrow'* the big test. I drive it an hour to Boston, and will quiet possibly get stuck in a little rush hour traffic.
I have high hopes or this car, even if it never gets modded (I at least want to add a Cold Air Intake and an Exhaust). It'* a nice car with a descent body that should last me a good amount of time. I'm hoping to get another 150,000 miles out of it. My Z24 did it with a Twin Cam Quad 4, so the Riv should have no problem.You guys have been great so far! Thank you ALL for your suggestions and comments!!! I enjoy communities like this. j-body.org is full of young kids who like to flame others just to start an argument. Some of you guys may also want to visit LesabreT.com (another great community), just to lend a helping hand to those who don't know of this site. The LeSabre T-Type was a non-aspirated 3800 and '87 3.8 V6 FWD...should be MUCH easier than diagnosing my Riviera!!!
Thanks again!!!