that doesnt sound significant really, half the country has to start their car in the very cold. your dad is right its a good idea to let it warm up a little while

I am betting that when I remove the pully I am going to find the vanes intact. Question, could the vane ring had slipped from the correct position? Is the vane ring aligned so that the pulses are in alignment with the crank shaft? If yes, then if the ring slips out of alignment with the crank, then the pulses are out of sync. I know a bit about electronics, this would be a phase shift of the pulses. It could be that I need to replace the harmonic balancer/pulley. What do you think of this line of thought?

Other than the harmonic balancer/pulley, it would have to be a faulty crank sensor even if it is a new one.

Then again, it could be the new crank sensor; it was an after market, BWD and I have read that some of the after market sensors are not so good. Considering what is involved in replacing the crank sensor, I should have went with an AC-Delco. Any comments on the crank sensor brand?

the ones ive put in and had no further trouble were wells brand, and i havent taken apart your specific engine down that far but i would think that ring or whatever would be aligned with a shear key to the crank. if that gets even a little distorted for whatever reason it can cause problems

I am going to go ahead and replace the timing gears and chain on this engine. Is it possible to remove the camshaft position magnet and place it in the new timing gear? I am wondering if the plastic has become brittle and it is not possible to remove the old one without damaging it. A new magnet is close to $30! What a scam! A little plastic holder and a magnet doesn't cost anywhere near that to make. I can get the timing gears and chain for $51.00.

Here is an update. I have removed the timing cover and inspected the alignment. The timing had not jump, the two circles; one on the timing gear, the other on the crank gear, align up as they should. The timing gear is worn as to be expected on such a high mileage car. Have everything to put it back together. I went ahead and switched out the new crank position sensor; it was a Duralast NOT a BWD. The harmonic balancer timing rings are OK, no bent vanes. They are attached to the pulley by four rivets and can not move.

My guess at this point is that the crank position sensor is partially working, allowing the car to start and run, but run rough. I was not sure I was going to be able to drive it into the shed it was running so rough. If I continue to get code 18 after putting it back together, I am just lost.

I'm a bit late on this thread, so if any of this has come up, I'm sorry. I noticed the engine temp was low. If that sensor is not reading right, it will throw off the mixture. Check your fuel pressure. If that checks out, then look at the coils. I know you said you tested them and got 10 ohms, but did you check both sides of the coil? I've seen coils test OK, and then fail when hot. You can test them after being in the freezer, then warm them up in the oven or with a heat gun to about 150* and test again. Coils often test good cold and fail when hot.

The engine temp was low probably because I could not let it warm up to operating temperatures. I was close to cutting off on its own so I just took the readings. The temp sensor has been replaced.

My guess is it is the crank position sensor and I got a replacement even though it had just been replaced.

I locked the flywheel with a pair of vise grips and using an impact socket, a break-bar and a length of pipe managed to remove the cam bolt (book says torque is 74 ft-lbs). The old gear and chain slipped off easily. The problem is I can not get the new cam gear back on, it won't slip onto the key. Upon inspection it appears the cam gear and the crank gear are just a smidge out of alignment.

I rebuilt the engine in a Ford F-150, but that was out on the bench, not in the car and easy to align the timing. On Mum'* car, I replaced the timing chain with the engine in the car because it was an '83 with a phenolic gear (Buick should be ashamed of that) and it stripped out in a car park. In that case the timing was way off and I had to get everything back in alignment. In this case the timing did not jump so I was surprised that the timing gear and chain did not just slip back on but the gear is just a tad off of going onto the key.

So what does everyone think? Turn the crank a smidge and see if it will slide on? Or what?

P.*. the timing gear upon just sight inspection does not seem to be worn; it looks like the new one. I am thinking this job did not need to be done. I was not sure what was wrong with the engine running so rough and that strange Code 18 error (not fault but error).

If it was me, I'd put the old gear back on. Whats a smidge? If the timing marks were lined up on first inspection then I would think things in that area are ok, and who knows what that new gear fits. If it was off just a smidge, if its a small smidge I doubt that it would cause it to run that rough. While your in there you could put a new chain on. You didn't say anything about checking injectors or spark plugs. My guess is you will find a dead cylinder or two.