The Timken bearings at Autozone are $87.99. Rockauto.com has them for $56.99 + shipping. I don't have experience with the Duralast to have an opinion. Perhaps others on the forum could share their opinion, but if it was my car I would use the Timken.

Thanks for your input, I'm growing more confidential that its the bearings now. I'll try to make time for it this weekend and I'll report back results.

Any idea how long these take to do? Considering I've never done them, I figured about 2 hours a side, if all goes well. Just removing brake caliper and the hub assembly, greasing and replacing.

Also, is it highly unlikely the tire just falls off? Someone said that it can and will and my wife is freaking out now. I told her it'* extremely rare, but in reality I'm not even sure.

it takes longer than you think if you live in an area of corrosion like i do the dust cap ussually gets stuck in the spindle and you have to pound it out from the backside with a chisel and a hammer being careful not to damage the cv boot.

ive never seen a gm that the wheel bearing failure caused the wheel to fall off, it usually lets you know for a while before even gets to where you can move the tire. if you have a dodge truck however ive personally know a few people who had that happen with little warning.

Read this thread that Danthurs created. It contains detailed instructions for a Bonneville, with I think is similar to your set up.

https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-134/wheel-hub-replacement-290447/

The biggest problem I had in changing mine was getting the bearings out of the bracket its seats in. There is a little trick in the write up that makes this easy to do if your bearings are stuck.

Here is another thread with pictures of the "hub extraction tool":

https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...&highlight=hub

thats a good idea

I live in Orlando, FL but unfortunate for me the car was purchased from the factory in Michigan, made its way to Florida in like 2002, was purchased by its second owner in Melbourne, FL (right on the coast) and then I bought it in 2009 so....its pretty damn rusted up. The wheel area is completely covered in surface rust (no corrosion, just surface...in that area at least) so I can imagine they're locked in there good.

As for the links posted, I really appreciate it. I'll look at them and see what I take of it.

I found this link and was planning on following it: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/G...ent/index.html

OK, so going back on my previous statement, that link you posted there is perfect. Thanks a million. It looks like game on come Sunday, lol. I'll print that page up, go buy the parts and see what I can do.

Just to follow up on this...

I fixed them today. Thanks EVERYONE who responded and helped, especially the link with the guide. I ended up not needing the guide, but it was a nice security blanket knowing if I wasn't sure I had picture instructions.

Took me 3 hours to do both sides...mainly because I couldn't find anything I could use as a breaker bar at first and the impact wrench couldn't even get the axles nut off or the other bolts that held the hub assembly on..they were rusted on there so bad. When I broke them free, they made a SNAP sound (I thought I broke the bolt at first) and a huge puff of rust dust came from the bolts as they broke free...so they were original for sure.

Needless to say though, I got it done and it sounds perfect now.

My only concern was each assembly came with a little metal (brass colored) ring with a rubber seal looking thing in the middle of it. That piece did NOT fit anywhere on my axle thread or anywhere on my car though. I assume it goes to different makes/models that the assembly is for because I'm like 98% positive it did not fit anywhere on my car.

I'm glad it worked out for you. Don't be a stranger.