'03 Buick Driver's Window (clunk) dropped - Fixable how? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 08-31-2011, 11:41 PM   #1
PaulBennett
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Default '03 Buick Driver'* Window (clunk) dropped - Fixable how?

2003 Century

Touched the switch to lower the drivers window - it made a funny noise and dropped into the door.

Any chance I can fix it? How? Suggestions please - I'm afraid of dealer service.

Where can I find a fixit guide with diagram etc?

Thanks
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:44 PM   #2
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I should have said, the GLASS dropped into the door and the switch/motor seem ok
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:50 PM   #3
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Sounds like all the sash clips broke, and it fell off the regulator. If you pull your door panel off, you should be able to work the glass back up. You can pick up some clips at an auto parts store, and glue them back onto the glass.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:00 AM   #4
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Found YouTube and learned a new word...REGULATOR

Now is sounds like the window glass has come out of the clamps. ?? Does that sound like a possible?
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:02 AM   #5
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Odd that I can't EDIT my threads as one can on other forums.

Question...when one glues clips onto glass, what glue does one use.

Sarah. Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:12 AM   #6
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I'm not 100% sure, but you can probably use some general purpose adhesive like JB Weld, or similar.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:25 AM   #7
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Ln 201 or Ln 202 is gonna be a good adhesive to use for something like that ...

they are liquid nails brand and are called

ceramic projects repair adhesive and home projects repair adhesive.

Good luck
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:43 PM   #8
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Removed door panel, believe the regulator to be bad as the cable is lying loose in the door. Ordered a new regulator from eBay, just under $30 including shipping. Seems most of these GM cars have a 'regulator' which is a vertical slide bar which holds horizontal piece which clamps the window with 2 10mm screws. The motor is connected to the horizontal piece with a cable which pulls the horizontal piece up and down.

I'm holding the window up using painter'* tape until the replacement part arrives.

I would NOT advise using a junk yard used part!!! Seems rather than pulleys to guide the cable in the regulator, the cable is run over a nylon piece which gets cut in two after some use. The nylon piece is obviously a penny cheaper than a pulley and having a/c, who opens or uses their windows anyway. The replacement regulator is $979 from Buick (not verified) or $30-$80 from China with numerous distributors.

For the next person who has a regulator break, I believe R&R to be a reasonable easy DIY task. I will post my results in a week when (hopefully) job is done.
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:50 AM   #9
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The end of that cable you see lying on the bottom of the door has a small keeper crimped on the end. This keeper seats into a nylon holder that is attached to the clamp that holds the window in place. Quite often that keeper will break through the plastic piece and the result is what you have on your car. The approach you are using (replace the regulator) is the correct fix.

Manually raise or lower the glass until you can access the two bolts that hold the glass clamp. They are probably 10 mm bolt heads. Once the clamp is loose and the glass is free of the clamp, manually raise the glass to the full up position (gets it out of the way) and put a stick or something in the door to hold the glass up there. Remove the electrical connection to the motor. Remove the nuts (3?) that hold the regulator to the door, and work the regulator out of the door. If the new regulator has a motor, reverse the process to install. If not, remove the motor from your old regulator and put it on the new one.

There are no clips glued or attached to the glass. It is secured to the regulator by squeezing it between two pieces of metal using the two 10 mm bolts. There is probably some rubber in there that prevents metal to glass contact.

Once it is all together and working properly, there is one last very important step. When you pulled the door trim panel off, there was a sheet of plastic stuck to the door with some of the nastiest sticky black stuff (its called butyl) you will ever work with. If you don't put that plastic piece back on properly you will get water leaks through the door into the car. Depending on how you removed that plastic piece, you may be able to salvage the butyl, but I always replace the butyl when I pull the plastic water shield. You can buy this stuff in rolls that come in 3/8" and 1/2" beads from any auto body supply shop. Its the same stuff that is used to install windshields in older cars. Buy the smallest diameter bead they have. When you put this stuff on the door sheet metal, pay particular attention to follow the exact same path as the old butyl. This will ensure water flow in the door is managed properly, and exits to the outside rather than into the car.

This is a fairly simple repair that most people with mechanical abilities and a very basic set of tools can do. The hardest part is getting the old regulator out of the door and the new one in. Just be patient and work it around until you can get it out of the door.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:13 PM   #10
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Job done and the brand new $30 including shipping regulator on eBay was much better quality than the OEM part. It has pulleys and better plastic. The cable in the OEM regulator is run over some cheap plastic and sawed its way through causing the failure.

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Originally Posted by 2kg4u View Post
The hardest part is getting the old regulator out of the door and the new one in.
IMHO the regulator R&R was the no brainer easy part, 3 minutes with a 10mm socket. The tough part was getting the door panel off and back on without damage. I had damage at the frame to the switch panel, either old or self induced but nasty. There is no way to know ahead of time where the panel attaches to the door and how, whether snap plastic clips or screws.
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