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I don't see logic on that board, just lights, buttons, and the display. It is possible that you shorted something to ground and fried just that board. If you can swap another one in, it might work and you can avoid re-VINning. I wouldn't put all of your eggs in that basket though.
The cable looks like it might just be melted and fried looking just by having been in a hot car for a couple of decades. Do you know if it looked any better than that prior to now?
Originally Posted by mossbuick
I'm 99% sure the cable was totally fine before.
Okay then we still have 1% hope!
You could get a volt meter and trace the leads from the connector to the board.
Seems like a good reason to update your car to a new aftermarket radio with bluetooth to connect with your smartphone since you inadvertently fried your factory unit. Check Crutchfield and/or SonicElectronix for upgrades.
Seems like a good reason to update your car to a new aftermarket radio with bluetooth to connect with your smartphone since you inadvertently fried your factory unit. Check Crutchfield and/or SonicElectronix for upgrades.
Originally Posted by CathedralCub
Okay then we still have 1% hope!
You could get a volt meter and trace the leads from the connector to the board.
Do you know of a guide or something that could show me how to do that?
Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman
Seems like a good reason to update your car to a new aftermarket radio with bluetooth to connect with your smartphone since you inadvertently fried your factory unit. Check Crutchfield and/or SonicElectronix for upgrades.
I added an aux input years ago and that'* been good enough for me. Also, a stereo installation package alone is around $300, and then I'd still have to buy a stereo on top of that, and I'm not looking to spend that much.
I don't see logic on that board, just lights, buttons, and the display. It is possible that you shorted something to ground and fried just that board. If you can swap another one in, it might work and you can avoid re-VINning. I wouldn't put all of your eggs in that basket though.
The cable looks like it might just be melted and fried looking just by having been in a hot car for a couple of decades. Do you know if it looked any better than that prior to now?
Originally Posted by mossbuick
I'm 99% sure the cable was totally fine before.
Originally Posted by CathedralCub
You could get a volt meter and trace the leads from the connector to the board.
Originally Posted by mossbuick
Do you know of a guide or something that could show me how to do that?
YouTube has some good videos on this. Basically use a volt meter to test continuity between each pin on the connector on the cable to the respective solder point on the board.
Last edited by CathedralCub; Jun 10, 2023 at 12:49 AM.
Reason: Added "connector on the"
You need to either pay someone who knows and has the equipment to fix it or replace it. You would need many months of tutoring to get where you could do this yourself.
Okay, so I got a used radio from pick-n-pull for $20. Swapped and tested some parts and it seems this front board:
is still fine and that whatever I fried was on the main board. Now this radio I purchased obviously doesn't work due to the Theftlock system, and it just displays "LOC" on the display. Does anyone know where the eeprom is located on this radio? Or how to determine which chip is the eeprom?
