Where are ya Jim? Aurora overheating....HELP - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Bonneville GXP/ Northstar Powered Cars Discuss your Bonneville GXP and/or any other Northstar powered Olds or Cadillac... Including the 3.5L Twin Cam V6 (Short Star ) 4.0L and 4.6L Northstar V8's. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-22-2004, 10:44 PM   #11
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its parts and labor. the reason its so much, first you have to take the engine out. then cause its a all aluminum engine you WILL strip threads, no question about it, the bolts will never seat right again, unless you do a time-sert on it, i believe that kit costs about $300, plus the labor to do all that, then put the baby back in there. i thought i had heard $2300 from somewhere, to extensive for a home mechanic
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:16 AM   #12
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You should remove the N* from the car if you are going replace the head gaskets. You must timesert, like Mikey said "its a all aluminum engine you WILL strip threads". Trying to drill the holes with the engine in the car, would not be a good idea. Most people who remove N* engines, take them out from the bottom. That means raising the front of the car, real high. Most people do not have a hoisting rig to do this, I am lucky I have a steel I-beam setup in my garage with a chain hoist. If my head gaskets fail, I'll do it in the garage. Also use the GM head gasket set, it comes with new head bolts. The bolts are use once bolts.

I have read (on the caddy board I visit) that a fresh coolant mix and the use of up to 6 GM coolant supplement tablets, have fixed minor head gasket issues. They stress and re-stress that these tables are a must use, when coolant maintenance is performed. I know that alot of people do not like to use "stop leak" type products, but the GM tablets are required for the N*, and are safe to use. Use only the GM or Bar'* Leak HDC product, DO NOT use anything else. My shop manuals also say the tablets must be used.

The first thing I did with my ETC was change the coolant and add the tablets. Since your Aurora is a 95, and uses green coolant. Flush, add the tablets and refill with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim W
FYI

If the cooling system fails totally, the car will shut down 4 of 8 cylinders, you speed will be governed to a max of 60 mph for 40 miles...or 40 mph for 60 miles I forget and the fuel is re-routed to keep the engine cool.....

Neat eh?
Ya, this happened to me once, accessory belt shreaded and blew water pump, DIC also said SHUT OFF ENGINE IMMEDITLY

For operating temps, my 96 Aurora always ran 220 range, 100% normal. Don't worry. As for the hard starting, I'd bet money that it'* the FPR going, very common problem, There'* a good group of guys over at www.edmunds.com in the townhall there. They can help troubleshoot almost any aurora problem, if/when you go over there and check it out, mention 800wattaurora sent you, you'll be welcome with open arms,,,eh,,,open keyboards.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:08 PM   #14
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So tell me ? Do you mean it pulls head bolt threads ? Or other accessory smaller threads. Is it because the bolts "set" and pull thread out on the way out or because the threads dont hold the torque well or realease the torque I guess. Or do they actually get somewhat corroded in. I am no stranger to aluminum so I know the certain issues but it seems like they would be OK at the head bolts. I take it they didnt use stainless . Stupid really the extra cost to a manufacture would only be one to two hundred per engine for stainless. Or is stainless undesirable for head bolts ? I've pulled accessary and manifold bolts out of aluminum head engine before without any issues, not counting thermostate housings but I've had troubles with them on iron engines anyhow. I always replace with stainless.

I ask all these ?'* because I do intend on 4.0 someday and want to know the whole scoop. I bet it is something like this that is the problem with the Black 95 previously mentioned. Its just like me to buy a car like that cheap to torture meself wit.

BTW xtreme and Willren and other moderators I know this is sorta off topic but it does pertain to overheating and coolant issues , important info is being had here so Im not do a hyjacking - honest -
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Old 02-27-2004, 02:48 PM   #15
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Wow, this is a wealth of information. I appreciate the input from EVERYONE. I'll be doing the coolant flush this weekend (with the tablets). Also will do the FPR change as well. Will let you know how things go. Thanks again guys.

Also....any talk of any meets for Auroras?? (I know this site is geared mainly to the Bonnies, but was just curious as to where I could find out about Aurora meets. Would love to meet and greet some of you knowledged and helpful owners).
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Old 02-27-2004, 06:24 PM   #16
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Good luck with the work. Its shouldnt be too bad to do that kind of minor maintanence

We only have 3 Auroras on BC so far...give us time, where are you located anyway? Somehow I doubt BC members will mind a sweet V8 showin up
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Old 04-06-2004, 01:39 AM   #17
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I'm in San Antonio, TX

Hey, quick question: Does the 1992-97 cadillac 4.6 N* have the same radiator as the 4.0 L Aurora radiator? I'm looking at buying a radiator made for the caddy 4.6L (made with aluminum core and plastic inlet/ outlet tanks--brand new--$170 USD)
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