REV Limiter on N*
#1
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REV Limiter on N*
I've been told the rev limiter on the N* works off shutting down fuel. Any body know if it'* done at the injectors or fuel pump or a valve?... I just gotta get rid of it. :(
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based on the thread with the sound of your car i assume you are referring to the park and neutral rev limiter?
the first question that comes to mind is why in the world would you want to remove that? revving your car up that high in park or neutral can be somewhat harmful, which is why there is a limiter on there to begin with.
im not downing you or anything, but i cant see the point in being able to redline it in park or neutral.
the first question that comes to mind is why in the world would you want to remove that? revving your car up that high in park or neutral can be somewhat harmful, which is why there is a limiter on there to begin with.
im not downing you or anything, but i cant see the point in being able to redline it in park or neutral.
#3
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Agreed...
In park you will hit the limiter at 4k ....
In Neautral sitting still with no vehicle speed you will hit it at 4k... also if the vehicle is doing less than a given amount of speed( not sure what it is for the N* ) you will again hit that limiter..
There is no real point in removing the park neautral limiter... I could understand killing off the top end limiter to get a little more...
I believe that the PCM can cut the fuel pump and the injectors.. Injectors would be the first thing to cross my mind..
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In park you will hit the limiter at 4k ....
In Neautral sitting still with no vehicle speed you will hit it at 4k... also if the vehicle is doing less than a given amount of speed( not sure what it is for the N* ) you will again hit that limiter..
There is no real point in removing the park neautral limiter... I could understand killing off the top end limiter to get a little more...
I believe that the PCM can cut the fuel pump and the injectors.. Injectors would be the first thing to cross my mind..
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#4
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Easy now!....Calm down.....Lord. I hit the limiter in park making the sound clip and I winced hard,... I DONT want to do that again What I meant in this post is that after I've been driving the car agressively, the torque manangement ( I assume) allows the top end limiter (@6500) to be reached before it shifts into second and sometimes third. That is the limiter I want to overide. I have the nitrous setup almost ready to go and I would really like to WOT without worry of hitting the limiter. Even backing off a little to shift under injection could cause hard detonation.( and I have a nylon manifold) My second thought was a throttle block just before WOT so I wouldnt have to backoff. I could really use some opinions. I'm almost a grand into this and want to get it set up as safe as possible. The nitrous/gas selenoids have a chip that feeds into TPS and its adjustable. So if I blocked throttle at say 90% and hit the TPS reset at that point , maybe thats a safer route?
#5
It is my understanding that the rev limiter works by shutting off fuel. Shutting off spark would not only waste fuel, but also dump alot of raw gas into the catalytic converter. I've never heard of a rev limiter engaging by shutting down the fuel pump.
#6
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Originally Posted by GreystoneGXP
It is my understanding that the rev limiter works by shutting off fuel. Shutting off spark would not only waste fuel, but also dump alot of raw gas into the catalytic converter. I've never heard of a rev limiter engaging by shutting down the fuel pump.
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#7
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Originally Posted by gxp rules
Easy now!....Calm down.....Lord. I hit the limiter in park making the sound clip and I winced hard,... I DONT want to do that again What I meant in this post is that after I've been driving the car agressively, the torque manangement ( I assume) allows the top end limiter (@6500) to be reached before it shifts into second and sometimes third. That is the limiter I want to overide. I have the nitrous setup almost ready to go and I would really like to WOT without worry of hitting the limiter. Even backing off a little to shift under injection could cause hard detonation.( and I have a nylon manifold) My second thought was a throttle block just before WOT so I wouldnt have to backoff. I could really use some opinions. I'm almost a grand into this and want to get it set up as safe as possible. The nitrous/gas selenoids have a chip that feeds into TPS and its adjustable. So if I blocked throttle at say 90% and hit the TPS reset at that point , maybe thats a safer route?
wow, so you can hit the limiter before you shift?
In our Buick 3800'* the limiter is set roughle 200-300 rpms after the shift point or 200 rpms after redline.. At least on mine it is... I have managed to hit the limiter a couple of time during ownership.. 99.9999 % of the time I will never get to the fuel cut off...lol
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#8
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HeHEhe Glad we're on same page now, I quess I should have been more specific. Read first replies and thought ****, they really think I'm whacked (no comments Bil)
Ya the car seems to have a learning curve as to how you drive it and now hits the limiter in a WOT. I was to busy raising a family (didnt have to opertunity for college and worked double shifts...two, three jobs same time) to have the nice things...So alot (most) of the tech things on car bewilder me.
As Greystone mentioned it wouldnt make sense to manipulate the spark and dump fuel into engine. I was hoping the computer did something simple like shutting down that little diaphram looking valve thingy where fuel line comes up to the TB. That would be easy to tee around with a selinoid just for injection. (Like I need one more switch in cabin area). But the engine can cut half the injectors alternating in a "limp home mode"( overheating protection) and probably cuts all injectors at limiter.
I quess I will cut a long rectangular piece of metal, find a place to screw it on and bend it so the TB can quite reach full open. It'* a trick the Taxi company I worked for ( one of my extra jobs for a long time) used to keep the cabs a little longer by preventing drivers from destroying the engines. Should only have to "govern" a little bit and with the liquid nitrous/ fuel injection should more than compensate. Got best kit avalible from ZEX after the NOS kit didnt work out.(At least they took it back) It has metering orifices from 75-250Hp for the mixing/spray jet.
Ya the car seems to have a learning curve as to how you drive it and now hits the limiter in a WOT. I was to busy raising a family (didnt have to opertunity for college and worked double shifts...two, three jobs same time) to have the nice things...So alot (most) of the tech things on car bewilder me.
As Greystone mentioned it wouldnt make sense to manipulate the spark and dump fuel into engine. I was hoping the computer did something simple like shutting down that little diaphram looking valve thingy where fuel line comes up to the TB. That would be easy to tee around with a selinoid just for injection. (Like I need one more switch in cabin area). But the engine can cut half the injectors alternating in a "limp home mode"( overheating protection) and probably cuts all injectors at limiter.
I quess I will cut a long rectangular piece of metal, find a place to screw it on and bend it so the TB can quite reach full open. It'* a trick the Taxi company I worked for ( one of my extra jobs for a long time) used to keep the cabs a little longer by preventing drivers from destroying the engines. Should only have to "govern" a little bit and with the liquid nitrous/ fuel injection should more than compensate. Got best kit avalible from ZEX after the NOS kit didnt work out.(At least they took it back) It has metering orifices from 75-250Hp for the mixing/spray jet.
#9
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I know how you feel... I wanted another Bonneville( SSEi ) But I made a decision a couple of years ago and decided to get a home instead... Paying rent was such a waste.. I was happy to get the 95 Bonnie when I did.. But its been over 8 years now, I still have it and I have to keep it going for a while..( Its had a lot of synthetic over the years )... But I would love to have a New car... Even a Bonneville SLE(05) would be fine with me just as long as it was new or really close to it... But that will wait..
I am wondering how much torque management that they used on the GXP with the 4T80-E... The 4T80-E was designed to handle the N*... We look at the GP GXP now with the 5.3 LS4 and they managed to beef up the 4T65-E and attach it to that chevy V8... I could imagine what that 4.6 would do with the 4T65-E... But the 4T80-E is a lot thicker if you catch my drift.. If and when it all comes about it would be interesting to see PCM options for the 4.6..
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I am wondering how much torque management that they used on the GXP with the 4T80-E... The 4T80-E was designed to handle the N*... We look at the GP GXP now with the 5.3 LS4 and they managed to beef up the 4T65-E and attach it to that chevy V8... I could imagine what that 4.6 would do with the 4T65-E... But the 4T80-E is a lot thicker if you catch my drift.. If and when it all comes about it would be interesting to see PCM options for the 4.6..
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#10
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There is alot of torque managment jr. I live way out in the country, but go to the big city alot so the car see'* a lot of different driving.( Including me using a little used aspalt town road as a launch praticepad). And the cars drives differently ALL the time. The owners manual states that if your disconnect the battery, to "wait and see" before taking to dealer because the engine/transmission has to relearn and can be troublesome starting and accelarating. Given the torque the nitrous is going to instantly throw at the tranny, I'm glad I have the 4T80. I hear its very durable. But I imagine 4T65 would make it much faster and probably the key element as to why the the SSEi is a little quicker in the quarter mile. So it'* a matter of giving the 4T80 the torque it needs to be effective
I been told a few times the PCM is outright locked, and cant be cracked.... but I gotta believe some young brain will figure it. My 4 year old grand daughter can program my DVD recorder better than me. But the dealer can make adjustments so it'* probably a matter of time and the LD8 is making it way to other cars, including Buicks.
Maybe I ought to start drinking with the service manager I quess it'* the throttle block for now and I think that will do the trick. If ya cant make an issue go away.....Build a wall around it.......Thanx john
I been told a few times the PCM is outright locked, and cant be cracked.... but I gotta believe some young brain will figure it. My 4 year old grand daughter can program my DVD recorder better than me. But the dealer can make adjustments so it'* probably a matter of time and the LD8 is making it way to other cars, including Buicks.
Maybe I ought to start drinking with the service manager I quess it'* the throttle block for now and I think that will do the trick. If ya cant make an issue go away.....Build a wall around it.......Thanx john