system advice
#22
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Originally Posted by zzzzzeke
the cleaner the power, the louder the speakers can get without distortion??(aka chance of blowing out)??
#23
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hooking speaker wires up behind deck
there is nop reason to hook the speaker output to the wiring harness if you are using a amplifier for all the speakers. in my install this is where i tied into my front speakers. some cars i have ran new speaker wire into the door. my addage is never trust gm look at what they call a radio. this perticular car is a major pain though. removining the kickpanel reveals a rubber panel that i thought would reveal the opening to the door. wrong i just found a solid steal panel behind it. so i did not hook the wiring harness to the radio but i used the harness to tap the front speakers. this worked great because now i have all my speaker componets in the door panel (MID'*, TWEETS AND CROSSOVERS). i was then able to use the stock door panel harness to hook it all up. the cd players amp is not used at all and i can turn mine off for better signal to the pre outs. love this cd player
#24
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Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Remember that if you're already @ your speakers top volume, more power won't make it play louder. Power is more for cleaner sound then anything. More power = cleaner sound @ same volume then less power. This is why you can play louder, things don't distort, or distort enough to limit it as well.
Did ya follow that?
Did ya follow that?
#26
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when I used to run my interior speakers using the head unit, GM'* stock wireing kinda gave me a "dimming problem" on my Pioneer DEH-p4400 50x4 display. I ran 2 10 gauge wires to the battery, one for juice, and one for ground, and the problem went away, and it seemed to have improved bass response. I know run a 50x4 RMS amp to my interior speakers, and holy cow, its so loud and clear, and the detail out of the speakers in amazing. So try and run a nice thick cable , because GM'* wire sucks.
Rob
(on laptop, no signature)
1992 SE
Rob
(on laptop, no signature)
1992 SE
#27
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Certified GM nut
ya my alpine deck with 60x4 internal amp requires a 10ga lead directly to the battery. you could also use the stock wiring and run a seperate wire to the fuse block for some extra juice
#28
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Originally Posted by zzzzzeke
ya my alpine deck with 60x4 internal amp requires a 10ga lead directly to the battery. you could also use the stock wiring and run a seperate wire to the fuse block for some extra juice
#29
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TAYLORD
I HAVE NOT TAKEN PICS OF MY CAR YET. WHEN I DO I WILL BT DOING ANOTHER SITE ON SOUNDDOMAIN. MY TRANS AM IS ON THERE BUT I CAN NOT SEEM TO FIND IT. MAN YOU INSTALL IS EXACTLY THE WAY I WANT MY TRUNK. BUT I WANT 12W7'* NOT TENS. JUST CURIOUS WHERE YOU GOT YOU BRAQKE LIGHT STICKER AND HOW HARD IT WAS TO CLEAR YOUR FRONT LIGHTS. I HAVE SEEN OTHERS THAT HAVE MADE MENTION OF DOING THE RAERS AS WELL. THAT SEEMS A LITTLE DIFFICULT BUT THE FRONTS LOOK KILLER. BUT ISN'T THE HEADLIGHT SEALED. I DO NOT WANT CONDINSATION INSIDE MY HEADLIGHTS LIKE EVERY CADILLAC I HAVE SEEN AFTER A FEW YEARS.
#30
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Certified Car Nut
Here'* a lil something to help you out....
Actually i think you'd find those 10w7'* much louder then you'll expect. I didn't think they made 12w7, i thought it was a 13w7 instead?
Actually i think you'd find those 10w7'* much louder then you'll expect. I didn't think they made 12w7, i thought it was a 13w7 instead?