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Old 06-08-2007, 03:35 AM   #1
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Default Subs go in, lights go out.

I just had my subs installed, and am running into some pretty serious dimming issues, but I can't seem to find any GOOD quality HO Alternator'*. I found the people that supply Unique Whips with their HO Alternators, but they seem a bit shady not to mention having to modify them a bit. If anyone can help me out, It'd be greatly appreciated.

As for the subs, I got 2 12" Bravox UXP12D-4'* running off a Memphis 16MCD-1000. I was definitely impressed with the BravoX subs. I listened to quite a few different subs (Diamond Audio, JL, Memphis, Orion, Boston) and the Bravox just stuck with me. The JL'* were definitely nice, but certainly not $550/pair nice. Either way, I'm happy.
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:36 AM   #2
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Default Re: Subs go in, lights go out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surreal
I just had my subs installed, and am running into some pretty serious dimming issues, but I can't seem to find any GOOD quality HO Alternator'*. I found the people that supply Unique Whips with their HO Alternators, but they seem a bit shady not to mention having to modify them a bit. If anyone can help me out, It'd be greatly appreciated.
Iraggi Alternator
Excessive Amperage
Mr. Alternator

All make very good HO alts.

I would also suggest you upgrade your "Big 3"
alt + to battery +
battery - to chassis -
block/alt- to battery-/chassis

use atleast 4ga

too bad you just missed the group buy for HO alts.
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Old 06-08-2007, 10:56 AM   #3
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I have 2 caps ion my set up 1.5 for sub amp, which is 1800 @2 ohms and .5 for my mid amp, at high volume and high bass i am dimming a bit. I have a 720 CCA (cold cranking amps) GM replacement battery and factory alt. Try a good cap.
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Old 06-08-2007, 10:35 PM   #4
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Upgrading the Big 3 will make more of a difference than a Cap. I would use 4 guage or bigger.
If your lights are still dimming after that forget the Cap and throw in a High Output Altenator. Cap'* are just band-aids for bigger problems.

The Big 3 is always the weakest link.

Dutch
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Old 06-09-2007, 03:59 AM   #5
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get your self a optima deep cycle battery, a amp of that size and quality should atlest have 0 gauge power and ground, also run 8 or 10 gauge speaker wire and 14 gauge remote wire, it will help on the draw on everything cuz it lets the current flow easyer with less restriction (and will make everything sound better cuz its not working as hard)
also make sure you use good quality connector(stinger products from a car audio store)
makesure all connections are clean and tight on the battery and alt (battery termanals should also be high quailty ones from the car audio store) after that go from there, before replacing the alt
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Old 06-09-2007, 04:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4cfed
... a amp of that size and quality should atlest have 0 gauge power and ground, also run 8 or 10 gauge speaker wire and 14 gauge remote wire, it will help on the draw on everything cuz it lets the current flow easyer with less restriction...
While I wont deny the fact that 0 gauge would be a good choice, 2ga would be more then sufficient. I do not agree with your rec. of 8-10ga speaker wire. That is completely pointless and wont help anything. I bet the tinsel leads on that sub are no larger than 16ga. Which makes speaker wire bigger than 14ish pointless unless the sub and amp are like 20+ feet appart. Same with the remote wire. Most remote wires are 18ga from the back of the headunit, and there is no reason to go larger.
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Old 06-09-2007, 03:09 PM   #7
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well on the speaker wire thing, the system i had in my eclipse was, 0 gauge power and ground to a mark anthony mp40? or mb40... cant reember but it wa * astraight competition cheater amp (rated at 40 wattsx1 at 4 ohm but the amp made just shy of 2k watts)
i ran 10 g speaker wire ( which my sub would take 12 inch digital designs 75 series)

so i guess just run as big of speaker wire as your sub will take,

we gained 2 DB by going to bigger speaker wire proven on sound worlds competition db meter,

just trying to give him ideads that will cut down on strain on the charging system
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Old 06-09-2007, 03:25 PM   #8
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Check it out you want a 160 Alt? We are still in the middle of a group buy PM me with the details of the car. Powder coating is also available. I will get you a quote
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Old 06-10-2007, 03:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GXP_Vince
Check it out you want a 160 Alt? We are still in the middle of a group buy PM me with the details of the car. Powder coating is also available. I will get you a quote
PM'd!

Thanks for the replies. The big 3 were done by the shop after they noticed the dimming issue. Caps seem like too much of a quick fix for me. I'd much rather do it right (alt/2nd battery) then have to worry about it later on down the road if I wanna go bigger, which I'm sure I will..
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:56 PM   #10
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Mmhmm.. So it appears the Nippon cannot be rebuilt for higher amperage due to the stator. Where do I go from here? Will a 2nd battery setup stop the dimming issues? I'm dropping down well into the red on some lower drawn out bass. It'* driving me crazy. People are constantly thinking I'm flashing them while not even beating my system to death. Just my normal highway tune.

It'* almost getting to the point to where I'm about to trade into my 4th car this year.
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