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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 06-11-2005, 01:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEi95
That'* what I did. Sealed the gaps with calking. One is buzz free but the other is still going at it. Not too suprising though considering how fast I built the boxes and how odd shaped they are (not 90^ angles due to space).
caulk or silicon? silcon is best i believe...

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Once the speaker and port openings are cut, put some silicone sealant on the tip of your index finger and reach into the enclosure to seal the inside joints of the baffle board. It'* very important for the enclosure to be completely airtight; air leakage reduces the system'* power-handling capacity and causes distortion. Once the joints are sealed, I recommend covering three adjacent inside walls back, top, and bottom, for example with 1 to 2 inches of polyfill (available at fabric stores for about $1.50 a bag). The use of filler will help minimize midbass resonances.
-from http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:07 AM   #12
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you are NOT supposed to use caulk... it is designed to "breathe" and you dont want that.

seal them with silicone.
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:10 AM   #13
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I used some stuff from home depot that best suited. Don't remember if it was silicon or not, but i think it was. I think the issue was there were gaps almost 1/4" in width. Like I said, the boxes were just thriwn together to see if they would fit more than carefultime and consideration in the building of them. Just to give an idea, the top is about 16" long, the bottom is about 13", the front is about 9" and the back is about 8" long. It makes for a very odd sized box (which was had to cut).
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
you are NOT supposed to use caulk... it is designed to "breathe" and you dont want that.

seal them with silicone.
The subs I have specifically specify a fully sealed enclosure of 1 cubic foot.
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:11 AM   #15
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sounds like you need a new sheet of MDF to make a new box.
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
sounds like you need a new sheet of MDF to make a new box.
haha..lol
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
sounds like you need a new sheet of MDF to make a new box.
Phase 2

Figured I'd see what fits, and then do it right later on. Unfortunetly there is a small lump in the floor where the front of the box sits, and a ledge where the back does, and the seat above makes a slant. And running 2 1000 watt PPI'* reqiures a bit of magnet clearance that is very limited. In fact, I aready raised the rear bench seat 2" with square tube steel for extra space.

Now that I know what will fit and how well, I am planning on building another, better box in the coming weeks.
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEi95
Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
sounds like you need a new sheet of MDF to make a new box.
Phase 2

Figured I'd see what fits, and then do it right later on. Unfortunetly there is a small lump in the floor where the front of the box sits, and a ledge where the back does, and the seat above makes a slant. And running 2 1000 watt PPI'* reqiures a bit of magnet clearance that is very limited. In fact, I aready raised the rear bench seat 2" with square tube steel for extra space.

Now that I know what will fit and how well, I am planning on building another, better box in the coming weeks.
what size are they? 10'*, 12'*, ...
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:22 AM   #19
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2 12" :P

They came from my car when I had them in there.
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEi95
2 12" :P

They came from my car when I had them in there.
if you still call that a car lol, it is more like parts
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