Sub box that stays put.
#1
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Sub box that stays put.
I have a huge box built by jachin. I love the box it sounds and looks great. I would just like to be able to put stuff in my trunk. I have thought of going the FIberglass route. Has anyone has built a box that will stay put in a trunk? Tips? Reccomendations? Help?
#2
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Man He makes KillR boxes...
I literally bolted mine to the chassis stiffner that runs behind
the rear passenger seats.... (2k B'ville)
Used some angle iron & tap screw'd to the beam and just
tack'd a nut onto the angle to thread a bolt through the
box (mine has a lip to attach through) 1/4" bolts
perhaps a similar method but dont damage the box!
what about the real heavy hook-n-loop, it'd likely
hang on to the trunk carpet....
I literally bolted mine to the chassis stiffner that runs behind
the rear passenger seats.... (2k B'ville)
Used some angle iron & tap screw'd to the beam and just
tack'd a nut onto the angle to thread a bolt through the
box (mine has a lip to attach through) 1/4" bolts
perhaps a similar method but dont damage the box!
what about the real heavy hook-n-loop, it'd likely
hang on to the trunk carpet....
#3
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#5
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Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
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i was tihnking of that but wouldnt the metal arms vibrate alot? i moved my cargo net and attched it to thise wide plastic pull things on the rear wall to hold mine in place
#7
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I built my box to fasten in this fashion...
the box falls just 1/4" below the "lip" on the
stiffning member. The angle is tight to the
steel and across the chasis I placed some
1/2" thick foam weather strip for the box to
butt up to.
The box was pushed tight to the foam and
then marked for the bolt holes. It'* tight and
don't rattle that I can notice.
Even the eye bolt idea is good but a turnbuckle
would allow you to remove it easily or tighten it
up if it'* noisy.
After reading the post about the bumper collision
causing the trunk to pop and a theft of opportunity...
I thought it'd be a good plan to secure the box through
the pass-through. The box hides the amp and other
sundry equipment, and requires access to the cabin
to remove the bolts to pull the box.
the box falls just 1/4" below the "lip" on the
stiffning member. The angle is tight to the
steel and across the chasis I placed some
1/2" thick foam weather strip for the box to
butt up to.
The box was pushed tight to the foam and
then marked for the bolt holes. It'* tight and
don't rattle that I can notice.
Even the eye bolt idea is good but a turnbuckle
would allow you to remove it easily or tighten it
up if it'* noisy.
After reading the post about the bumper collision
causing the trunk to pop and a theft of opportunity...
I thought it'd be a good plan to secure the box through
the pass-through. The box hides the amp and other
sundry equipment, and requires access to the cabin
to remove the bolts to pull the box.
#8
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i don't know if your box is carpeted or not..but mine would go all over the place until i carpeted it....the carpet keeps it in place...there are also 2 2x4 legs screwed on underneath and they are wrapped in carpet as well...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...9/577182_6.jpg
There it is...you can see the legs in that shot...might work for yours....
Good luck,
James
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...9/577182_6.jpg
There it is...you can see the legs in that shot...might work for yours....
Good luck,
James
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Here'* the ones I make, they stay put with no fastening http://bradgoldring.com/goldringaudio.htm
(In 92-99s) I don't know the trunk dimensions for any other years.
(In 92-99s) I don't know the trunk dimensions for any other years.
#10
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Originally Posted by aCiD
Here'* the ones I make, they stay put with no fastening http://bradgoldring.com/goldringaudio.htm
(In 92-99s) I don't know the trunk dimensions for any other years.
(In 92-99s) I don't know the trunk dimensions for any other years.