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Old 04-08-2006, 06:41 PM   #1
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Default Stock Head Unit and Sub/Amp installation question

Does the stock head unit have all the proper input'*/hook ups to power the sub, or is there some adapter or similar that I'll need to hook up a sub and amp? I'd like to be prepared when I take it to my buddie'* to have him hook them up. Any help is appreciated.

Joe.
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Old 04-08-2006, 06:59 PM   #2
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the stock head unit doesn't have hookups for an amplifier for a sub

you'll need to tap your speaker wires from the rear deck, and then run those wires to the amplifier as "high level input" or get a converter that converts the speaker wires into rca plugs for your amplifier

otherwise you should be ready to go, just need to run a power wire, remote turn on, and ground
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Old 04-09-2006, 12:14 AM   #3
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You just made me realize how my friends works in his ranger. He always said he had no rear speakers.
Yeah, i think you can just use the rear deck speakers and convert the wires to RCA to plug into the inputs to the smp. Then the sub amp will block out the high sounds and play the low ones.
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ofnarcr4
You just made me realize how my friends works in his ranger. He always said he had no rear speakers.
Yeah, i think you can just use the rear deck speakers and convert the wires to RCA to plug into the inputs to the smp. Then the sub amp will block out the high sounds and play the low ones.
you can jsut split off the rear speakers and put them to the amp if it has high level inputs. if not you can still split/tap off the rear speakers and then convert the signal.

The nice thing about that is that you can control the bass by change the rear speaker settings
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:08 PM   #5
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I posted in here last night and see that my post and a couple others have disappeared. They were relevant to the questions asked, so why did they get deleted???
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:53 PM   #6
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Amp positive to battery. Amp Ground to trunk (Ground) Remote to power antena. For the signal route, you can splice into your rear speaker wires to run the signal into the amp,(Amp has to have high input capabilities) but I recommend you splice down away from the rear speaker as much as possible. The speaker will act as a diaphram like a microphone and will transfer any noise picked up to your sub, or you can buy a line output converter like the one pictured below.

You just splice the rear speakers into the converter, then run RCA'* to your amp.

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Old 04-09-2006, 05:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK94SSEi
Amp positive to battery. Amp Ground to trunk (Ground) Remote to power antena. For the signal route, you can splice into your rear speaker wires to run the signal into the amp,(Amp has to have high input capabilities) but I recommend you splice down away from the rear speaker as much as possible. The speaker will act as a diaphram like a microphone and will transfer any noise picked up to your sub, or you can buy a line output converter like the one pictured below.

You just splice the rear speakers into the converter, then run RCA'* to your amp.

How much does one of these cost?? I take it by going this route there would be less splicing involved? My screen name should've been lazyjoe instead of crazyjoe, lol.

Joe.
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjoe
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK94SSEi
Amp positive to battery. Amp Ground to trunk (Ground) Remote to power antena. For the signal route, you can splice into your rear speaker wires to run the signal into the amp,(Amp has to have high input capabilities) but I recommend you splice down away from the rear speaker as much as possible. The speaker will act as a diaphram like a microphone and will transfer any noise picked up to your sub, or you can buy a line output converter like the one pictured below.

You just splice the rear speakers into the converter, then run RCA'* to your amp.

How much does one of these cost?? I take it by going this route there would be less splicing involved? My screen name should've been lazyjoe instead of crazyjoe, lol.

Joe.
LOL They dont cost too much. $19.99 at http://www.crutchfield.com/*-NtmrisW...rter&i=142SLC4

Either way you have to splice.
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:23 PM   #9
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you can avoid splicing by buying a new HU. your choice.
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:42 PM   #10
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So, just to verify that I'm understanding all of this, there is no need to tear into the dash to gain access to the factory head unit because the sub will be run off the rear speakers, correct?

And what type of remote turn on do you guys recommend? I take it that the amp will be on all of the time if a remote switch is not ran? Does anyone have any pics of a remote turn on?? I'd like to see how you've got it set up in your bonnie. Thanks again.

Joe.
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