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Old 09-21-2006, 10:56 PM   #1
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So, yeah, it seems that my whole right side is blown, is there a way to fix this? Like some kind of gel or glue or something I could put on them? Also, if I do go the aftermarket route, is it worth replacing my tweeters? I have the 5.25s and 6x9s with 4 tweeters
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Old 09-22-2006, 12:34 AM   #2
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are you sure that its not the HU that dropped the right side channels??? i have seen that happen before
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:22 AM   #3
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He mentions glue...I'm thinking the foam around the outter edge of the speaker tore.

My first thought was right channel though.
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:10 AM   #4
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You certainly want to check the output of the HU, IMO. I thought my speakers were blown also and was trying to find out what type speakers to replace them with. Don had a replacement HU we put in and VIOLA! The speakers were fine and sound better than I can remember in a long, long time.
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:03 PM   #5
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hmm, ya know what, now that you mention it my sound has been getting muddier lately. Anyone got one they can bring to NYBF?
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petraman
hmm, ya know what, now that you mention it my sound has been getting muddier lately. Anyone got one they can bring to NYBF?
What was the gel or glue for originally? Inquiring minds wanna know
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:34 PM   #7
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I think he was looking for a product that could be used to replace the foam type dampener material on the cone edges that deteriorates with time. Right?
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Old 09-27-2006, 02:30 AM   #8
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If you want to test the speakers there is an easy way without another deck.
This test can also be used when wiring an aftermarket headunit (without the harness adapter) to indicate if you have a correct pair of speaker wires or it can be used to tell if speakers are in Phase or out of Phase.

Remove the HU or the door panel which ever is easier for you to access the speaker wires, for the speaker in question.
Since you have 2 speakers to test it would be more practical to remove the deck.

It will be necessary to slice off some of the coating on the speaker wires to do this test.
You can easily tape them up after with good electrical tape (3M).

Also I don't recommend using this test on tweeters.

Test:

Get a 9 volt battery (little square one, duracell etc). I don't recommend doing thiis test with any battery other than the one I mentioned or a 9v drill battery.

Touch the positive speaker wire to the positive battery post and the negative speaker wire to the negative battery post of the 9 v battery.

If the speaker pops this tells you that the speakers voice coil is not blown and will play.


Just thought I would share a old Installer trick

Dutch
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:58 AM   #9
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Check if one of the speakers on the right is not grounded. That happened to me on my left side. The speaker in the rear was touching a metal part at the connection. In the stock headunit, the side should go out and create a popping noise when you turn on or off the radio. In an aftermarket, there will be no sound if there is a short on most of the newer ones.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch2005
Get a 9 volt battery (little square one, duracell etc). I don't recommend doing thiis test with any battery other than the one I mentioned or a 9v drill battery.
We used to do this with an ordinary 1.5 volt D-cell.
Not sure why you wouldn't recommend doing it with anything other than 9 volts?
1.5 volts will put less direct current through your speaker windings, won't heat up your battery as bad or risk burning a tweeter voice coil as bad, and it gives the same results.

In either case, It is a good test. You just tap the connection together for just a moment to see that the speakers produce movement and that they move in phase with each other. DO NOT leave a DC battery connected to your speaker for more than just a moment. Do it just long enough to see that it responds.
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