no radio replacement for 2000?? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 01-05-2004, 05:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mremer
the shop I dealt with did the same thing. They ran +12V off the ignition ciruit right there behind the dash. You loose the ability to have the radio continue to function after the car has been turned off (for 10 min or when a door is opened) but big deal right?
You could run it off of something that'* hooked up to the timer.

Taylor you still use the speaker wires? Don't you have an amp for the speakers? You should look into some new wiring if you are using the deck for that stuff...
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:26 PM   #12
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personally I don't think it worth the effort, besides with my amp, XM tuner, etc, I don't want to wear down the battery with no engine power. I have an American Warrior HiFonics AMP pushing about 100 watts(each) to the FACTORY mids and highs through the factory wiring. When I upgrade the amp and speakers I will probably upgrade the wiring, but may leave it since I don't have a problem with it..

just my opinion though, wonder if Taylor replaced his or not....
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:30 PM   #13
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Well if i ever go to a 4 way amp i'm not going to use the stock stuff (i'll keep it there though) I don't plan on selling my car ever. But If i have a 4 way amp in the back, then i have to run signal wires to the front.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:35 PM   #14
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What is the primary argument for replacing the factory wire?

(not picking a fight, just want to find out if this is a stereo shop conspiracy)
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:20 PM   #15
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Yes I have all new speaker wires, Monster Cable wires. I needed to have all new wires run since I'm using a 4 channel in the trunk and also have my crossovers in the trunk that then run to the front speakers. My Alpine dosen't have an internal amp, has 3 sets of 4 volt pre outs.

Personally I don't think there'* anything wrong with still using the stock speaker wires if you can, I used them in my Aurora'* setup at first and had no problems, then I went to Boston Comps for the front and had to re run them for the crossovers.
I'd still use them If I was using power off a deck.
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Old 01-06-2004, 02:23 AM   #16
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Off a deck sure, but i wouldn't for amped speakers. Thats too much splicing etc, and you'll be running more watts then stock, and more watts like bigger speaker wire. If i get new components, i'll definetly amp them (maybe a 4 way amp just for them...) and then i'll want new wire. I'd also like a higher quality wire, one with better connections, that aren't 10 years old, or using silly GM harnesses.

As for the 4 way amp for 1 set of components, you use 2 channels on the tweeters, and 2 on the woofers. You would use external crossovers, before the amp, and setup the front to rear for gains accordingly to whats on each channel. Then each channel is only being amplified by what signal is needs, with the crossovers before the amp.
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Old 01-07-2004, 02:51 PM   #17
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you said that you did replace you frontdoor speaker wire. how in the heck did you get to the door. i pulled the kick panels off and the i could see a rubber piece. behind the rubber was solid metal. i would love to change it out because i to do not trust the factory wiring but i found i nearly impossible to do. i had the same problem with my jeep. to me this is even worse because i have 150 watts going thru the factory ribbon cable.
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Old 01-07-2004, 03:09 PM   #18
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how did you clear you rear lights. i read the post on the fronts but i am worried about condinsation. i know they are sealed from the factory and i do not wanna have to replace the lights. have you had any problems
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Old 01-07-2004, 04:32 PM   #19
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I sealed my clear corners up with RTV silicone adhesive, and I haven't seen any water in them yet (lotsa chances too). The screwdriver method worked well for me.

I pushed the wire from the door, into the car, and I used a coat hanger to do that. If you can still get to the stock wiring you can attatch it to that, and then pull that out and hte new wire with it. I still have the stock wiring in some parts. I have the main wire go into the door, then i used a butt connector, and ran the 2 ends of the factory wire into the connector.
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Old 01-07-2004, 05:27 PM   #20
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I THINK MINE IS DIFFRENT THEN YOURS. I HAVE ALWAYS USED A COAT HANGER. THE PROBLEM IS THA I CAN NOT FIN THE WIRES IN THE KICK PANEL AREA. I SUE=RE CAN NOT SEE THE PATH THRU THE DOOR. THERE IS A BUNDLE IN EACH KICKPANEL BUT THE WIRES ARE NOT THE RIGHT ONES
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