Need some sub advice
#61
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Dont fret, its a piece of cake! However, I think that'* overkill! It might be worthwhile to coat the inside with fiberglass resin though. Doing that will ensure that the box is sealed (no air leaks) and will make it alot stronger. Now if you had some crazy subs where the motor was as big as the cone diameter then fiberglassing it would be a good idea cause you'd need even more strength and rigidity. But for your appplication it would be a waste of time and money. But if you insist, its a walk in the park.
#62
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Just do as the pro'* do. turnt he enclosure on a 45 degree slant, one corner at a time and pour resin on each inside corner. so each corner is sealed. My box uses wooden dowel rods for cross bracing, but as MONTELS mentioned ur not going to be pushing huge db'* with this setup so bracing prolly wont be needed. But i do recommend using 45 degree inside corners. I didnt think it would make a differance but it did. Thats in a ported box tho, I believe ur using sealed so that wouldnt be needed either
#63
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Just do as the pro'* do. turnt he enclosure on a 45 degree slant, one corner at a time and pour resin on each inside corner. so each corner is sealed. My box uses wooden dowel rods for cross bracing, but as MONTELS mentioned ur not going to be pushing huge db'* with this setup so bracing prolly wont be needed. But i do recommend using 45 degree inside corners. I didnt think it would make a differance but it did. Thats in a ported box tho, I believe ur using sealed so that wouldnt be needed either
#64
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No in this instance i am talking about u actually take a router and bevel the edge of the boards so when u put it all together and look inside the box, the inside corners are bullnosed (45 degree corners) helps the air move more effiently out of a ported box.
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Just do as the pro'* do. turnt he enclosure on a 45 degree slant, one corner at a time and pour resin on each inside corner. so each corner is sealed. My box uses wooden dowel rods for cross bracing, but as MONTELS mentioned ur not going to be pushing huge db'* with this setup so bracing prolly wont be needed. But i do recommend using 45 degree inside corners. I didnt think it would make a differance but it did. Thats in a ported box tho, I believe ur using sealed so that wouldnt be needed either
Man, I wonder about you sometimes
#67
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At first i was talking about slanting the box and resin sealing the joints THEN later in the paragraph i was talking about making the inside corners bullnose (aka not 90 degree corners but rounded)
Then u said the exact same thing I did about 45'* helping air flow out of a sealed box but he didnt need that cause he is using a sealed enclosure
Then u said the exact same thing I did about 45'* helping air flow out of a sealed box but he didnt need that cause he is using a sealed enclosure
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At first i was talking about slanting the box and resin sealing the joints THEN later in the paragraph i was talking about making the inside corners bullnose (aka not 90 degree corners but rounded)
Then u said the exact same thing I did about 45'* helping air flow out of a sealed box but he didnt need that cause he is using a sealed enclosure
Then u said the exact same thing I did about 45'* helping air flow out of a sealed box but he didnt need that cause he is using a sealed enclosure
Let'* not forget I have a pair of ID12'* and a sub amp that smokes yours, if you do win it won't be easy
#70
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Lets throw my Fi Q into the mix! Hehehe. And I just put my system back in my trunk and wired the sub to 4 ohms (1100w rms) so my bass is clean, crisp, accurate and not ungodly loud. Sounds great with no dimming or voltage drop. Just dont have that getting punched in the back of the head feel. Sounds like a good trade off to me!