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Old 09-19-2004, 05:52 PM   #11
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Thanks randman1! I will do the cutting there. Do you or anyone know know which wires goto each relay connector (87, 85, 86, 30, 87a)?
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Old 09-19-2004, 06:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumbsioux
Thanks randman1! I will do the cutting there. Do you or anyone know know which wires goto each relay connector (87, 85, 86, 30, 87a)?
You don't have to cut the wires, just tap into them. What kind of output do you have from the keyless entry? Negative 200ma? Positive 200ma? "Flip-flop"?

Your car uses a positive trigger for lock/unlock. If you have a positive output, it'* a direct connection. If it is negative then:

85 - negative output from keyless entry
86 and 87 - fused (5 amp) +12v
30 - output to vehicle wire

You will need two relays. One for lock and onr for unlock.
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Old 10-29-2004, 04:52 PM   #13
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Remember to test the wires before connecting anything. With a meter or CSTP (circuit safe test probe) you can find the right wires in the kick. But as far as using relays - most new keyless systems will have a negative output. Some have both (reverse the wires). If not, DEI makes a piece (451M) that tells you how to wire it, makes install a little easier and saves a little space since its smaller than two separate relays. Separate relays work like this basically:

Whatever goes into pin 87 will come out 30 when the relay is energized.
IE: you throw 12v to 87, 12v will come out 30 (normally open)
Whatever goes in pin 86 must be the opposite of 85.
so putting negative output from alarm to 85 will require you to tap 86 to 12v.
87a has the reverse effect of 87. it will throw out to 30 whenever the relay is not energized. (normally closed)
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