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Old 10-10-2006, 06:40 PM   #1
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Default ignition voltage

I'm trying to find a good source for a positive power wire that is on with the ignition and turns off with the RAP. I have found three different ignition wires throughout the vehicle. there is the ignition 1 wire which is pink, the ignition 2 wire is brown, and ignition 3 wires are orange. There is also a yellow "accessory voltage wire." I have no idea what the three ignition wires do, or when they're HOT, and the same for the Accessory voltage wire. Most of these wires can be found right near the st eering column which is convenient for me. any ideas?
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:47 PM   #2
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If you need a RAP circuit, I'd suggest the sunroof fuse. Tap the fuse on the unprotected side, and install your own fuse on the new lead.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackIce
If you need a RAP circuit, I'd suggest the sunroof fuse. Tap the fuse on the unprotected side, and install your own fuse on the new lead.
2 years electronic schooling here, i was thinking the same thing or tap into ecesory fuse
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:03 PM   #4
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The main accessory wires at the ignition harness will not exhibit RAP characteristics. You need something controled post BCM to find that.

Going on 8 years professional electronic repair/installation
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:32 PM   #5
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will either of the wires atleast work if the ignition is in the "Accessory" position? That'* good enough for me. (if I want to listen to the radio after turning the car off I'll just click it from run to accessory since it'* just one position over on the 2000+ cars. Would accessory 1 be accessory p ower, 2 be run, and 3 start?
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:42 AM   #6
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Well the positions are off/acc/run/start. Personally, since these cars use smaller gauge ignition wires, I would still strongly suggest going to the fusebox and running the lead from there like I mentioned. I'm big on wiring equipment to mirror factory functionality, as I went out of my way to retain OnStar/steering wheel/door chime when I installed my source equipment. For any vehicle that uses a databus controlled factory stereo, I really push using the computer integration pieces. It keeps the car'* computer happy, and just flat out makes the install easier by creating an RAP accessory output for an aftermarket HU. GMRC-04 is the Metra part to integrate with a non premium sound system.
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:35 AM   #7
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I've already had one of the metra interfaces in an attempt to keep it factory, but for one, the chime wouldn't turn off in certain conditions which drove me nuts, and the module itself went bad after a month. I refuse to spend another $70 for one.
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:39 AM   #8
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Yeah, I'm aware of the older software versions that did that, though I have an original version AXXESS GMOS-05, and have never had it glitch out on me, shrug.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:01 AM   #9
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Custom...hit up Toastedoats...I think the cig lighter is controlled as you want.
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Custom...hit up Toastedoats...I think the cig lighter is controlled as you want.
That'* what I'm currently using. The only problem with the cigarette lighter is that it'* on for ten minutes after you shut the car off regardless of if you open the car door or not. So while all of the other RAP controlled devices are cut off from power, the cigarette lighter will remained powered up until ten minutes have passed from the time you shut the ignition off. My headunit has a display that is quite bright and with moving/flashing images. It attracts too much attention at night after I leave my car. (for 10 minutes anyways.) It'* more of a security and reassurance thing more than anything else.
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