well you could use some type of car connector.. MCM Electronics might have something, or Mouser.com

I used a "Cargo Bar".....found at almost any Autozone or places like that......holds it back no prob!!! I had the same problem until I was like DUH!!! As for the Quick disconnect.....couldn't u use the female/male connectors like on the speakers??? The only wire that u might not be able to do that on would be the + wire.

Yes I have done just this....

using a MOLEX connector (computer power supply connectors)
there is a 'tail to the sub box that terminates in a male molex

The amp harness terminates in a female molex

Just pull apart and remove box (this is what your after right?)

The pluses:
1) The (+) & (-) leads will never come in contact so no short'* to deal
with if the box is removed. Wires cannot touch when powered up.
2) Easy removal installation
3) created several bridge adapters:

they net 2ohm mono 4ohm stereo and single bridge configurations
so just inserting a small 3" long molex bridge in the harness changes
the wiring without messing up the permenant wiring.

Let me note that running 2 drivers in parallel (-2 ohm) just screams
dimms my headlights with every punch and causes a protection fault
if driven over 25% volume (but the amp is only 4ohm stable)

The idea was just to experiment with wiring without pulling the box
and messing with the amp to re-wire for different configurations

The box is bolted directly to the xmember at the torsion bar along
the rear seat. Can only be reached from the pass-thru I used angle
iron brackets that are were welded to the x-member with bolts
welded to the brackets. Slide in the box Line up the holes and bolt
her up.

The sub totally covers the rear of the trunk and hides the amps
and also offers protection from water which enters the trunk and
the rear area if the lid is opened when wet.

Go to an industrial shop or welding shop and ask for quick disconnects for welders. Inexpensive and easy install, most use allen screws to hold the wires in . After the install, it'* easy to connect and disconnect, twist feft or right.

I use a 4 way and wedge it between the box and the end of the trunk where the inflator is located. works perfect for me

Well i just want to say THANKS!!!

i never had any problems with my sub box sliding around until i read this post ... now everytime i press down firmly on the right pedal my box goes flying.

i guess i will have to find a way to secure it - i'm just glad there are several great suggestions here!

I fabbed some brackets for my box out of 16 gauge steel on the front (subs facing towards trunk opening), one on either side.`