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Old 03-21-2005, 03:57 AM   #1
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Default Complete stereo overhaul gameplanning query

Just got my bonny last week. I Love it, BUT the stock stereo makes me It has the tape deck with the EQ on it with two grills per door mid and a tweet I presume. The best part about it is the wheel controls. My previous car had my alpine pushing two sets of kicker components front and back. The alpine is a vdrive cda9815 so it did a descent job and I loved it. So now yall know why I'm hurting.

I kept the Alpine but wrote off the components , both sets were 5x7. I've read a few posts about the front speakers and figure I must have 5.25'* in the front, although every fit guide on the net says 4x6. I've also read of people stuffing 6.5'* up there. I would much rather stick those up front, but I need to know since I buy all my audio stuff off of ebay, and would rather take the front doors off just once. Is there room to mount the passive Xover under that big *** door panel. I like mounting tweets alot higher then that tweet spot on the door. What do yall think about mounting them up on the door, like on the flat of the door panel on top next to the mirror adjuster stick. Looks like you could flush mount them to me. Has anyone done this. I thought it might look odd almost being in the middle of the door, but I know it would sound better then the bottom of the door.
My Alpine has to have direct power from the battery so I'll have to run that to. I dont mind drilling but would rather sneak it through the firewall. I'm sure there is a link to this on this site. When I do that I will also be running 4gage through as well since I have two L5 10'* that Ive never used but plan to eventually. Had my contour all wired as well but was satisfied with my kicker components for the most part. How about wiring the front doors from the deck? Can you slip through the rubber hose going through to the door or is that a plug for the wires which would mean drilling . The back deck looks pretty cut and dry to drop some nice 6x9'* in. Oh ya and what the hell is that swich in the trunk for? It says trunk lockout or something. I just left it how it was

quick recap of gist of post
1 Size Front speaks?
2 room to mount xover?
3 tweet mount location (*) suggestions?
4 firewall passthrough points?
5 running speaker wire to front doors and rear if thats an unseen problem?
6 trunk lockout switch purpose?
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Old 03-21-2005, 04:18 AM   #2
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Default Re: Complete stereo overhaul gameplanning query

Quote:
Originally Posted by silver98SE
quick recap of gist of post
1 Size Front speaks?
2 room to mount xover?
3 tweet mount location (*) suggestions?
4 firewall passthrough points?
5 running speaker wire to front doors and rear if thats an unseen problem?
6 trunk lockout switch purpose?
1. It sounds like you have the 5.25" components

4. theres a grommet on the drivers side that'* fairly easy to use. The wires come out around your parking brake pedal. I have a 4 gauge and a 10 guage (for my V-Drive) going through it. im sure someone has a good picture of it, the techinfo article seems to be down.
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Old 03-21-2005, 04:22 AM   #3
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I just overhauled my audio system myself. I drive a 95 SE though, so it didn't come with the equalizer or the component speakers in the front, even though it has the spot for the tweeters, they're just covered up.

When I went to best buy (I know that'* sacrilege, but I was going for convenience), they looked it up and sold me 4x6'*. When I popped the door panels off, I removed the 5.25'* that were in the doors and got summarily pissed at best buy, but I did notice that I could have mounted the 4x6'* there if I wanted to. So you could get 4x6'* and mount them without a problem, but the larger magnets on 5.25'* will give you better bass.

There should be plenty of room for your crossover, cause there'* lots of room in the door.

You might not be able to mount your tweeters (other than the regular spots, of course) above the armrest on the door, but that'* just my guess. Open it up and look

The firewall in my car was a pain in the *** to get through. I searched for hours trying to find a spot. I removed the glove box completely, and still didn't find anything suitable (or an actual pass through point at all, for that matter). I finally pulled back the carpet on the passenger side and drilled through about 8" up from where the floor ends and the firewall begins.

The trunk lockout switch should prevent the button inside and (possibly) the remote from opening the trunk, meaning you need the key to get in there.

Have phun.
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:21 PM   #4
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Ok i took pictures of the grommet thats on the drivers side of the car. It'* on the far drivers side and pretty low on the firewall, behind the strut tower.



Like i said, it comes out around the parking brake assembly, you'll probably have to take the plastic piece above your gas and brake pedals off to pull it through. this plastic piece is held up with 3 or 4 small screws that are pretty easy to find. I fished my 4 and 10 guage through using a coat hanger and then taping the wire to the hanger and gently pulling them both through the grommet.



you can run the wire to your v-drive above that black plastic piece thats above the pedals and it will conveniantly come out behind the dash around the headunit.
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:40 PM   #5
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wouldn't it be 10x easier running the power wire down the passenger side instead of crossing that precious power wire accross the engine bay?
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:46 PM   #6
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ok

1. 5.25 speakers, with a tweet with a bass block

2. yes

3. I think that the stock location is good but for better imaging, you can mount the tweet right by the door pull handle on the inside. Or by the fixed window

4. please see my install. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ght=power+wire Running over the strut bar and the firewall grommet on the drives side is a waste of wire and time.

5. there are tweeter wires in the door already. The radio has 4 channels coming out hte back of the deck and then spilts in the drivers door. one for the woofer and one for the tweeter. The tweeter has a bass blocker on it

6.you can turn that on and then no one is able to open the trunk if they only have the Valet key
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:55 PM   #7
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Default Re: Complete stereo overhaul gameplanning query

Quote:
Originally Posted by silver98SE
quick recap of gist of post

2 room to mount xover?
yeah there should be plenty of room

3 tweet mount location (*) suggestions?
you could mount them on the A pillar

4 firewall passthrough points?
there is one behind the glove box...there is a thread in the audio section that has pictures of how someone (I forget the name) went through with 2 and 4 or 4 and 8 gage wire.

5 running speaker wire to front doors and rear if thats an unseen problem?
should be pretty easy.

6 trunk lockout switch purpose?
It prevents the button on the door from working. THe remote button will still work.
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Old 03-21-2005, 03:35 PM   #8
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Great job guys this is awesome!!!! What about the ease of wiring the front doors myself?? Do yall use the factory wiring? Did yall use the bass blocker from GM .
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Old 03-21-2005, 04:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
4. please see my install. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ght=power+wire Running over the strut bar and the firewall grommet on the drives side is a waste of wire and time.
I agree your way is cleaner and uses less wire but definately takes more time and is taking more of a risk than using a pre-existing grommet.

edit: damn that is good, i may have to rewire once it gets nicer out. Only concern is that i need a 10 gauge lead to my headunit so i would have to have a distribution block behind the glove box or something like that, seems sketchy.
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver98SE
Great job guys this is awesome!!!! What about the ease of wiring the front doors myself?? Do yall use the factory wiring? Did yall use the bass blocker from GM .
I used the stock wiring, I ran speaker wire form my amps up to the headunit aftermarket connnector. I think that is better than rewiring the front doors

the bass blocker is on the factory tweeter that is built into the wiring on the tweeter side of the connector in the door
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