Car Starter / Keyless Entry HELP! PLS! *UPDATE* *SOLVED* - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 10-21-2006, 12:11 AM   #1
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Default Car Starter / Keyless Entry HELP! PLS! *UPDATE* *SOLVED*

Hello, I have a 1991 Buick Lesabre and I am putting a Astrostart 2106XR into it.

I have almost everything working, just not the door locks. I got it starting just fine (this thing has mad range), the horn honks, the lights flash ect ect ect it ALL WORKS EXCEPT.....

I would really like to get my door locks working remotely.

This unit, is not like ones i have seen before where it just has 2 wires and a guy can tap into the door switch blue and black wires.

This unit brainbox has internal bosch relays for handling the door locking/unlocking.

There is 3 wires on each side of the harness of the brainbox for the locking stuff, 3 for lock, 3 for unlock.

They are:

LOCK Common - 30 - Brown
LOCK N.C. - 87A White/Brown
LOCK N.O. - 87 - Brown/White

UNLOCK Common - 30 - Blue
UNLOCK N.C. - 87A - White/Blue
UNLOCK N.O. - 87 - Blue/White

I have located the CARS locking relays, they are behind the glove box. There is also six wires that come out of this lock/unlock relay. What I would like to know is what wires I should put where.

On the CARS lock/unlock relay there is:

BLACK, TAN, BLACK, ORANGE/BLACK, GREY, BLUE and labeled F E D C B A on the front

The orange/black, or wire "C" seems to be hot at all times, i got 12 volts out it with the multimeter off any random ground in the car. The thicker black wire, or wire "D" if i put the multimeter across it with "C" i get a normal +12volts also, so I would guess that wire would be ground. Would these be my "COMMONS?"

It looks like wire "F" and wire "A" would be the wires that go to the door lock switches in the doors, they are a lot thinner too than the other 4 wires and i get a bit of a bump of some volts on the multimeter, im sure its a 12volt but my meter sux and is kinda slow.
Would these me my "Normally OPEN?"


So that would leave us with wire "E" and "B".... i dont know what they are. Im GUESSING they go to the actuators in the doors. Would these be my "Normally CLOSED?"

Thank you extra in advance for any help anyone can give me. I just dont wanna blow my door locks apart and have to fix them cuz I did something stupid.

Other than internal door locks relays are confusing me this starter seems to be one awesome unit though. I can stand on the other side of the building at work and it starts every time. SWEET.... now what would be sweeter is if i could get the remote keyless entry going...
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Old 10-21-2006, 02:36 AM   #2
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You would only end up using all the wires in a five-wire door lock system. Your vehicle just has standard positive trigger locks.

Your lock and unlock 87 (normally open) connections will need to be tied to constant 12v. If the wires do not have an internal/external fuse attached, use a 5-10A fuse on each.
The lock outputs, terminal 30 (common) will actually connect to the vehicles lock wires

- Brown from the brain will go to the light blue lock wire
- Blue from the brain to the black unlock wires
Both wires should be availible in either side kick panels.
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Old 10-21-2006, 05:25 AM   #3
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Hah, I tried installing keyless in my car which is the same wiring as yours...i basically gave up haha..good luck with that...but im trying to remember where i got my really good instructions for mine...they might work for you....i will have a look around and see if i find them again.
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Old 10-21-2006, 01:34 PM   #4
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Default I think I get it!

Blackice, I think I get it!

I thought long and hard about it last night, and then read what you posted. And it occurred to me to make my doors lock or unlock, I just need to "connect the dots" and simply trigger the relay the car already has. And just like you said, i only need 30 and 87 to do that. 87A is completely useless to me in a 3wire pos lock system cuz all that would do if i hooked up 87A is be constantly either locking or unlocking the door because 87a is Normally Closed. 87 is Normally open, so, I use that one combined with 30 to grab some power so when i press the button on the keyfob, it temporarily closes the Normally Open lead, and K-CHUNK, locking or unlocking happens. I just woke up maybe that makes no sense but it does to me thats whats important hah. Thx for helps!
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Old 10-21-2006, 11:42 PM   #5
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Default SUCCESS!!!!!!!!

K-CHUNK

SWEET! I have keyless entry now. And I didnt have to pay the stereo shop a dime, beyond the actual unit. ($175 for unit, $200-250 for install. OW! I should become an installer)

I would like to give mad props to BlackIce, because his info was very helpful and helped clear up any doubts I had in my mind as to regarding NOT blowing up my new toy. I was 75% on the right track, BlackIce made it 100%.

Anyway, its pretty simple. I kinda feel dumb :>

1. Locate your cars central locking relays, its one of the items that Blownville is selling atm in the buy/sell section. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ight=brumfield
I hope it is ok I use his picture as refrence, his is awesome because its OUT of the car and has the colored wires dangling out the back for refrence so its a prefect pic. This guy hides behind your glove box, where all the other relays are.

2. The two outermost wires "F" and "A" or Black and Blue, these are your door lock switch wires or COMMONS. One of them locks, one of them unlocks. Bare some jacket off them and solder up to the brainbox harness. Blue is lock, Black is unlock.

3. The orange/black wire, its your 12+v constant hot at all times. Bare some jacket on this one and solder up BOTH your NORMALLY OPEN wires to this guy. And use some fuses, this wire can dump up to 30amps before its fuse goes. I put fuses on the commons too, cuz im paranoid like that.

4. Thats it. You have keyless entry now.

I would definately like to say this was not exactly something that takes an hour or two. I honestly thought I would do it in about 5-6 hours or so In an afternoon/evening. Nope. Hows 12 over three days. I guess 12 hours is not so bad for my frist time. And this being a rather complicated little unit didnt make it any easier. Anti-Grind feature threw me for a loop too till I read more stuff on the internet. The pressure of being poor like kenny did not help either I bet as I didnt want to wreck the cars door locks or the brainbox itself. Anyhow, in the end I can press a button in the morning when I wake up and its minus 30 hop in the shower and have a warm car to go to work in. Not to mention no more frozen locks. Canada is hard on cars man. hehe.
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Old 10-22-2006, 02:41 AM   #6
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Glad to hear you got it figured out. I like helping out, so post away with any 12v questions. I have 8+ years of profesional install/service in mobile electroincs, and along with the other experienced guys around here we can work through most stuff. Now I just have to get motivated enough to put in my own alarm/rs.
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