Just doing some shopping around and I found the Infinity 1240w and JBL GTO-1202D for the same price. Considering my amp which one would you recommend? Also the JBL is a dual 2 ohms impedance, so could i wire that to work or would i have the problem that Plurr mentioned? I'm still a little confused on the ohms deal.
Here'* some links:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3165
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2956

JBL and Infinity are both made by Harman/Kardon...infinity is supposed to be the higher end product. you can go to a local audio shop and have them test your amp for you and tell you the read outs on it, but I personally do not think that the amp you have will be stable and it might overheat. I could be wrong but I wouldnt go 2 ohm just to be safe unless you dont care if your amp burns up. (actually thats what we tried to do to the old rockford fosgate amp but it was built sturdy and shut off every once and a while)

you want cheap that will bump off of almost any low power amp? Directed has a "cheaper" line of subs and amps called Extreme. There made to impress the ricer wannabe crowd but definetly sound excellent. Mated 1 12" Extreme sub with a 350d Directed amp in a $35 box from the local car audio store in my lil' sis'* GP and it'* almost as loud as my Rockford Fosgate 2000w T2 and bridged 750d Directed amp in a custom box. Just my 0.02 cents

that sub is teh roxor.... did u build the box to the recommemded RF enclousre???

Ya. I'd post a pic but don't know how.

t8ertot, you asked about, or said you were confused about "ohms"?
That is a measure of resistance/impedance.

One speaker usually has a rating of 4 or 8 ohms (tho this can vary)

If you have more than one speaker (sub) and hook the together in parallel, the total "ohms" the amp is feeding figured this way -

ohm rating of any one speaker divided by the number of speakers.
(that is assuming all speakers are of the same impedance, which is the "ohms")
Say you have two 8 ohm subs hooked in parallel, You divide 8/2, and you get 4 ohms.

So with the "ohm stability" issue, when an amp is "2 ohm stable" or whatever it is, that means the total impedance of the speaker(*) hooked up to the bridge (if amp allows bridging) must be at or above that impedance. Otherwise, the amp will fry cause too little impedance will be seem as a short, almost like hooking a wire directly across the speaker outputs.

And with the power issue - the subwoofers only need to handle as much RMS power and the amp is putting out. You can go with more powerful subs, but it is not necessary.
The infinity 1250W subs will never see that power with your present amp, but if you decide on a larger amp in the future, you will be all set. I guess it could be called - "room for expansion".

Sorry bout all that. Explaining impedance is kinda hard to do in brevity.

If you have dual voice coils, it works the same way in dividing. And if you have 8 ohm subs, your running house speakers! Car stereos are a 4ohm or less setup and house stereos are an 8 ohm or smaller steup.

thanks for your help, i think i've got the ohms down now. At circuit city it'* buy one 1242w get one free so i'll get two. With my current amp should i run just one sub and save the other til i get a new amp or should i run both of them of my amp and get less power to both of them but have 2? Also which wiring should i do parallel or series for both of them? One final question, if you do recomend just running one and saving the other for later could i build two single boxes so i can have one in my trunk and then when i get a new amp but both singles in my trunk, or would it sound better if i went with one double box? sorry if that was confusing

double VS single box -
Doesn't matter as long as each box, assuming you run sealed boxes, are the right size for optimum performance.
If you just have ONE sub for now, it wouldn't make any sense to have a 2-sub box.

About 8 ohms VS 4 ohm - Yeah true most subs are 4 ohm, I was just using that as an example.

AND with the dual voice coil - make for certain you run the polarity in phase, as in, they are working together. (+ and - correctly hooked up) otherwise they will cancel each other out.

Wrong. Hope i don't confuse anyone but here goes. Series lowers the ohms and raises the watts out of an amp that can handle lower ohms(amp runs pos to pos on speaker then neg to pos on other speaker or voice coil, then runs neg to pos of first speaker or voice coil back to amp neg). Parallel raises the ohms and lowers the watts(amp pos runs to pos of first speaker or voice coil pos and then to pos second speaker or voice coil. amp neg runs to neg of first speaker or voice coil and then to neg of second speaker or voice coil) Run series if you are running a DVC or 2 speakers, as long as your amp is eg: 2 ohm stable. If your amp is not rated at 2 ohm or lower stable run it in parallel config. I've been wiring car systems since i was 14 (14 years, damn, getting old) and this is what i have always lived by.My 0.02 or more cents.