Hi all, new member here with a couple of questions regarding adding a aftermarket head unit to my vehicle.

1. I have no interest in keeping OnStar or the RDS chimes, if i buy the regular run of the mill radio harness will i be fine? For example this one; Buick Dash Kit + Radio Harness + Antenna Adapter Single Din
Or this one if i wanted to go double din;Double Din Stereo Kit

2. I don't have any stickers on my speaker grills displaying Bose or any other brand, and i only have a CD slot on the OEM radio, this leads me to believe that i have just the base sound system and don't have a OEM amplifier. Would i be correct in assuming that? Meaning i wouldn't need anything extra like a harness to install a radio.

3. I have about 7-8 holes forming a circle in my wood grain trim to the right of the steering wheel, what is this? Can i possibly fit a bluetooth microphone in there for an extra stealth install? Is there a better palce to put the microphone for bluetooth as the headunit i will be purchasing will 100% have bluetooth phone calls and audio streaming.

1 that kit seems right, you will likely have to tie the keyed power to a rap circuit as the newer gms dont have switched power at the radio

2 look in your trunk thats were most amps are

3 i like to put the mic on my sun shade because the dash seems like its too far away

just out of curiosity what are you getting? if you get it from crutchfield or sonic electronics they give you free install stuff

The thing with the holes is your cabin air temp intake. Behind the holes is a temp sensor for your HVAC system.

Jwfirebird can you elaborate? I've never done a radio install that needed extra switched power.
I plan on buying everything at local businesses, I already have the dash kit and they want something like 15$ for the harness and antenna adapter. As for a head unit I'm thinking of getting the Alpine ive-w530 it'* on sale for $198.00CAD at visions and pretty much has everything I'm looking for. I played with their demo model a couple days ago and it'* actually not to bad for the price.

Also, I don't have automatic climate control, I'm guessing I wouldn't have the sensor in the dash, I think it'* a pretty good place for microphone.

it appears you are good with a Rap wire to the radio, alot of cars after 2000 have only "always on power" and the network connection turns them on and off, so if you want to replace it with a aftermarket unit without the expensive controller you have to run the aftermarket hu keyed power input to the fuse panel and hook it to something else that is on the retained acc circuit.

thats a good spot for a mic, but you have to consider that it is about 2" from the vent, and gm'* use very cheesy foam to insulate the actual vent to the ductwork. id imagine there would be lots and lots of wind noise if you have the hvac on.

one thing to consider if you do end up getting a double din, you have to chew up a ton of plastic in the back of the stereo compartment. if you are leery of doing that, i would stay away from a 2 din.

Okay, so im still a little lost, so do i need the Rap wire or not? i thought the RED wire on the radio harness was switchable power, running a wire from the fuse box to the radio might be a little tricky for me as my fuse box is under the rear seat next to the battery.

I understand that i will need to hack up the backing plate for the stereo, i have no problems doing this, i believe that is the reason crutchfield insists that no double dins will fit my vehicle. either way, i bought the harness and have everything else, tuesday morning i will be buying my hu and will install and get back, possibly with a DIY if i can find my camera. Taking apart the dash should be interesting as i cant find anything anywhere for step by step instructions on how to take apart the dash.

You need switched power along with constant power. Right now, at your radio harness, you have constant power. Newer GM radio'* these days only require a constant power wire. When installing an aftermarket radio, the radio needs switched power and constant power. Where you get the switched power from is your call.

that drawing above says there is rap power to the radio as well as constant power. not real normal, you will have to check with a meter when you get in there to be sure. it says the rap color is yellow and that will have to be hooked to the hu'* keyed input

i couldnt tell you for sure on the wiring issue, but i can provide insight on the dash. general rule of thumb on the late 90s-05 gm'*, is pop off the ends of the dash that are blocked by the doors, and there will usually be a 7mm screw there. provided there arent any screws on the gauge cluster "overhang" its a matter of prying the entire face of the dash off. then the stereo itself is held in with (3) 7mm screws. in my park avenue, there is also a wooden trim piece with a clear seam between it and the dash face. the wood just pops off. no fasteners apart from the clips.