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Old 10-02-2007, 07:26 PM   #11
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Great...glad that you've got things pretty well done. The nicked plate is the backing plate for the brake rotor. The thing to watch for is that it does not rub against the rotor, once everything is back together.
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:22 AM   #12
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How did you make out? I'm assuming you has success with the new bolts/hub and are taking a well needed rest.
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:18 AM   #13
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Archon,
I wasnt' sure what that plate was for other than to hold the sensor out of the way. However, I did remember how it looked when it was on there, so I put it flush to the knuckle and LIGHTLY tapped it with a hammer to flatten it back out/make sure nothing rubbed. I will check to make sure the rotor spins without rubbing, although it seems pretty far away and I don't think it will. Maybe when I look at it now, knowing what it does, I'll realize it'* closer to the rotor than I thought. Thanks again for the help!

Bill,
I made out OK. Funny, it took me 20 minutes to get the car jacked, brakes off, axle nut off, and one of the 3 backing bolts. Took me two days to get those two bolts off. Went and got two new bolts, came home, and 20 minutes later had everything back together- except the wheel. I lost one of the lug nuts in the incident, and they are tuner nuts, so I'm waiting for 4 new nuts to come in. They should have been in yesterday but the wrong set got sent. Once they come in, I'll throw them on and I should be good to go. Thank you for the help too!

Bill and Archon, I don't know what I would do without your advice on this forum, you've gotten me out of more than a few jams (either directly or by finding posts where you helped someone else with the same problem). It is much appreciated!

I'd also like to thank TrueWildMan who was kind enough to PM me a few times with information on how he cut the holes around the bolts open. His information told me that the sawing would work, and that the threads were only in the part that I was replacing anyway. The fact that he cut through that steel with a hacksaw is also unbelievable!
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Old 10-06-2007, 11:08 PM   #14
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Next time, in order to get the room (and torque) you need to get a good socket grip on those bolts simply turn the steering wheel clockwise all the way. Now loosen the top and bottom rear bolt. Then turn the steering wheel CCW and remove the remaining bolt. You probably WILL need a hollow pipe on your socket wrench for leverage, or use a breaker bar, but turning the wheel will give you enough room to get a really good first, fresh grip on the bolt head, without lubricant or heat.

The first time I tried to remove those bolts I worked for over 2 hours. Thought I'd stripped the heads. Finally called my ASE-Certified brother. He is the one who recommended turning the wheels. Oh, and he also used a slightly smaller socket on the semi-rounded off heads. With the extra room he was able to pound the sockets on to the bolt heads, making quick work with a short socket extension and medium-sized breaker bar.
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