Wheel Bearings
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True Car Nut
Joined: May 2003
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From: Holt, MI & Lima, OH
As was already said, this is a common problem on '00+ Bonnevilles, and its not too hard to change. When you pull the tire off its pretty obvious what has to be removed to get the wheel bearing off.
Good luck to you and welcome to the club! And hey, you have the same name as me...
Shawn
Good luck to you and welcome to the club! And hey, you have the same name as me...
Shawn
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Posts like a Camaro
Joined: Jun 2005
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Hey
I've done two front wheel bearings in the past two months, the second one wasn't too bad, but the first one took me about two and half hours to figure it all out. I think you need a 17mm, 13mm, and I don't remember the size for the big nut. It'* not too bad, and you can do it. Good luck!
Shadd
I've done two front wheel bearings in the past two months, the second one wasn't too bad, but the first one took me about two and half hours to figure it all out. I think you need a 17mm, 13mm, and I don't remember the size for the big nut. It'* not too bad, and you can do it. Good luck!
Shadd
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Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Nov 2005
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drive nut replacement?
My Helms manuals finally came. In the replacement instructions it says to put on the "new" drive nut. It doesn't specifically say to not reuse the old one. Is it necessary to replace the drive nut?
Thank you,
-Shawn
Thank you,
-Shawn
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third bolt on hub
How do you get the top bolt out for the hub assembly? I can't get access to it- tried sockets, box wrench, impact gun.... CV boot is in the way. Tried raising control arm with a floor jack to change the drive shaft angle but still couldn't get enough room. Someone put this in a really stupid spot. Do I have to unbolt the tierod to get enough swing on the steering knuckle? Help!
-Shawn
-Shawn
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nevermind
I turned the wheel outward all the way to the lock and managed to get an impact gun in there (somehow). Just need to rent a puller now to get this thing off the shaft. Doesn't seem like there is much clearance for the ABS plug...
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True Car Nut
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From: Purgatory
You dont need a puller.
If you have all 3 bolts out and the main center nut your set.
Take a piece of wood (2x4) gaurd the end of the shaft and hit the wood with a short handle sledge hammer. One good rap will usually do it, dont take a wild swing just follow thru with a good solid drift.
Once the shaft is pushed back you can tap the assembly off with a smaller hammer, dead blow hammer is best.
If you have all 3 bolts out and the main center nut your set.
Take a piece of wood (2x4) gaurd the end of the shaft and hit the wood with a short handle sledge hammer. One good rap will usually do it, dont take a wild swing just follow thru with a good solid drift.
Once the shaft is pushed back you can tap the assembly off with a smaller hammer, dead blow hammer is best.
Guest
Posts: n/a
The drive nut takes a 34mm, 1/2" drive socket for those who don't have one. I have the drive nut off and the 3 bolts for the assembly are out. Using a puller, I have the shaft maybe half way out the back but that is as far as it wants to go. I don't want to screw anything up on the axle splines so before I go whacking on something, I want to be sure of what I'm doing. Is it safe to try to separate the bearing assembly from the spindle by driving a wedge? I guess I didn't quite follow Pontiac Dad'* explanation of the 2x4. Are you driving from the back side of the assembly?
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
All done. I just had to put aside my cowardice about beating on things and it came apart without much trouble.
One note is that the Intense assembly has a note in it to torque the drive nut to 180ft. lbs which is above the 150ft. lbs that most home torque wrenches are calibrated to. I just cranked mine up and hoped that I got reasonably close to 180.
A tip when disassembling is to note where the WSS lead is relative to the assembly. Since there isn't much extra length on the lead, it may save you from having to disassemle again to rotate everything into place so the lead will reach the bracket. Ask me how I know this.
One note is that the Intense assembly has a note in it to torque the drive nut to 180ft. lbs which is above the 150ft. lbs that most home torque wrenches are calibrated to. I just cranked mine up and hoped that I got reasonably close to 180.
A tip when disassembling is to note where the WSS lead is relative to the assembly. Since there isn't much extra length on the lead, it may save you from having to disassemle again to rotate everything into place so the lead will reach the bracket. Ask me how I know this.
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From: Purgatory
Glad it worked out for you.
I tightened my center nut till it stopped with an air impact, never been a problem.
That top center bolt is my favorite, you never feel like you have a good hold of it
I tightened my center nut till it stopped with an air impact, never been a problem.
That top center bolt is my favorite, you never feel like you have a good hold of it