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Old 03-28-2007, 07:50 PM   #21
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You mean I finally got one right? What do I win.
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by toastedoats
Honestly, in working in a few shops with many fellow mechanics.. there IS NO TORQUE for a hub not, you tighten the H*** out of it with the impact wrench. thats it. none of this 120ftlb B.*.
Those same people are probably ones who tighten the ***t out of lug nuts and cause warped rotors. I'm sorry to disagree but the torque values are there for a reason. If the design torque isn't sufficient to seat the bearing, the bearing wasn't designed to be a true OEM replacement.
I had posted earlier that the first hub I got from gmpartsdirect had a separate insert specifically stating to torque it to 180ft.lbs. whereas the next one I got from them didn't say anything so I torqued it to the factory spec. Obviously, something in the design of the first one dictated a higher torque value but it has been functioning just fine.
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Old 03-29-2007, 03:13 PM   #23
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When I removed the passenger side bearing on my car, it fell apart on me, too. Examining the guts of this bearing, I could see how it would "clunk" in an internal piece was missing or broke, yet would still roll without a hum.

A broke or missisng bearing cup, or a spindle collar could cause things to "shift" when turning the steering wheel. At any rate, it really sounds like a fautly part for sure.
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