This is my second time in 1 year of driving that my front rotors warped. Now they pulse like he##. What'* my best option now? These are 1 year old pads and rotors (GM delco pads and rotors). Turn them or replace them? They have about 8000 miles on them.

IMO I would get some better quality rotors & pads other than the GM. Always make sure the wheel nuts are all equally torqued when re- mounting the wheels. Use a cris-cross tightening pattern and torque to specification 92 ft lbs.

They were properly torqued last install. I might invest in some slotted or cross drilled. I 'll have to research some threads to see what the general concensus is for those who have used them on their bonnies. But I guess I'm up for another front brake job again!

In your search, I believe that you will find that most will say to stay away from the drilled rotors. As metal is removed by the drilling, there is less there to handle the heat and can warp more quickly as a result.

I've seen a lot of posts saying to stay away from the drilled rotors. Sounds like they're for show & race cars not daily drivers. You should also check out the rear brakes. The front brakes do most the work but you don't want them doing all the work. Make sure the sleeves that the calipers 'float' on are clean & well lubed. They make a special grease for this, silicon based based I think.

Hmmmm....this failure so soon wouldn't happen to have anything to do with the operator would it? I've heard the same thing about slotted rotors as Archon & Techy Ted. There are good, better, and best of the regular rotors you can buy...maybe invest in the "best" ones and practice coasting longer..... :P :P :P

I have slotted and drilled rotors, and I have no complaints. They look great, which is main reason for buying them. They offer about the same stopping power as the OEM rotors/pads (using Bosch premium pads). I've had them on for a little over 6 months now (approx 3-4000 miles), and have had no troubles. They do squeak a little, but I beleive that'* from the pads.

From what I've read on slotted and drilled rotors, some work well and others don't. They have to made the right way for them to have any form of benefit. This is just what I read somewhere, so I could be wrong. I have had no problems with mine, they still have the same stopping power (a little less brake fade when I slam on the brakes when at high speeds...which I rarely do), and they look great.

Making sure the torque on the lugs is even is one thing to check each time.
Don't drive through water or hit puddles especially when the brakes are hot from
just having stopped the car. The water splash can help warp them.

I'd suggest the top line of a name brand replacement rotor. I put Raybestos on my car with remanufacturer calipers at 50K and have had great brakes since. Don't waste money having rotors turned unless they good rotors to begin with; they'll rewarp.

I think we are getting a little insight to driving habits at a meet from Singscountry.

To all... leaving enough distance to brake is not only safer..but also better. Using the brakes over too far a distance will heat them up..as will too short a distance. Then sitting still.. the hot rotors can warp.

Try changing your braking style when you change warped brakes...give me an honest time and you shouldn't warp them. Warping shouldn't happen without excessive heat.

One thing I've always done when using brakes prior to stopping is apply some brakes then release for a second or two, apply brakes and so on. This way I'm not "riding" the brakes all the way down to a complete stop. Just my .02