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Old 04-03-2007, 03:01 AM   #11
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I am going to go against the grain here and say the apn is a pain in the ... and it caused yet another day of down time for me I will not be buying their product again. If anyone want to know more pm me
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Old 04-03-2007, 06:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore

From Sears, a smaller 3/8" drive deflecting beam type torque wrench does just fine for UIM/LIM work. It costs $25. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944690000
Uhm, that one there might make it kind of hard to see 89 inch pounds Bill.

I guess it will work, I'm just saying seeing 7.5 and 11 foot pounds on a scale of 0-75 foot pounds is kind of tedious I would think.
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Old 04-03-2007, 06:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MACDRIVE
Do you already have the throttle body gasket?

I'm thinking you're going to need some black RTV to put around the elbow o-rings before you slide the elbows in.

If you're going to clean the TB, you might get you some Scotch-Brite pads.

Don't forget to drain the radiator before you start; otherwise, you'll have coolant all over the place when you pull the manifolds.
The throttle body gasket is part of the UIM kit.
Coolant elbows: The FSM shows this as a dry install. Maybe a little prelube with vasoline only.
Cleaning the TB.... scotchbrite pads inside a smooth surface? Uh...NO!
As far as draining the radiator.. you only need to drain about 1-1.5 gallons. No need to fully drain the entire system.
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Old 04-03-2007, 07:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Coolant elbows: The FSM shows this as a dry install. Maybe a little prelube with vasoline only.
willwren said to use RTV somewhere on this board. I could go on a long search and find it, but maybe later.
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Old 04-03-2007, 08:13 AM   #15
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Correct, WillWren did mention that he used RTV. I also used RTV at one point. The down side is now I have to clean RTV out fo the area where it shouldn't be located.

The FSM says dry install, billions have been done this way. It works If a dab of RTV was desired it honestly shouldn't hurt. The lubrication factor for insertion (where I suggested vasoline) is basically what WillWren and I used it for as well as an added sealant. Both of us had elbow leaks and didn't intend on taking the car back apart for a third attempt at elbows.
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Old 04-03-2007, 08:42 AM   #16
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I have always used silicone grease on o-rings, but I'm weird.
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Old 04-03-2007, 09:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
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I have always used silicone grease on o-rings, but I'm weird.
I'm a littler weirder than that. I used Astroglide.
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:23 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Your APN kit will come with a throttle body gasket.

And....here are my recommendations for UIM/LIM repairs for the 95-05 L36.

Please note that if you cannot wait for parts in the mail, you will not get the best fix.

The best fix for the LIM - GM aluminum frame gaskets......$59
The best fix for the coolant elbow(*) Dorman Help.........$6
The best fix for the UIM - APN upper intake manifold kit......$115 including shipping

In addition, I recommend the following steps to keep engine operating temperatures down, to ensure that coolant flows around the hot stovepipe area in the plastic UIM, and to eliminate any possible harm from the use of Dex-cool - all factors that protect and extend the life of the UIM and LIM gaskets.

Flush coolant and re-fill with "mixes with any color"
Drill a 1/16" hole in a 180F thermostat flange and refill according to: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
Install an after-market transmission cooler.

I use only a scraper and degreaser to clean gasket surfaces on the cylinder heads to avoid introducing abrasives into the engine. I use blue loctite on the LIM and UIM bolts.
I remove the exhaust crossover for better access to the throttle body bolts and easier removal of the LIM.

Regarding the UIM, the longest-lasting fix will come from an upper intake manifold protected by a heat shield and the use of a reduced diameter stovepipe to provide an insulating gap between the hot stovepipe and the metal heat shield. The only commercially available kit that provides those features is from APN. Dorman UIMs have NO heat shield protection for the plastic EGR bore, but rely solely on the insulating gap provided by a reduced diameter stovepipe.

UIMs can be sleeved, plugged, and otherwise repaired for re-use, and these repairs can be made at low cost. But, unless the UIM is fairly new, most will typically exhibit warpage at the throttle body sealing surface and at the coolant passage sealing surfaces around the EGR bore. When considering repair of a UIM, don't forget to add the costs of a new UIM-LIM gasket and throttle body gasket, typically about $45.

From Sears, a smaller 3/8" drive deflecting beam type torque wrench does just fine for UIM/LIM work. It costs $25. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944690000
Well then, it sounds as if I was on the right track for picking out the right and best parts, which is what I like to hear.

The APN kit does come with the stovepipe kit, or this is extra?

I already planned on drilling a hole in the 180 tstat. I might actually do two holes since there is plenty of city driving involved.

I planned on replacing with the mix with all coolant as it was.

As far as replacing is concerned, how should I go about this? RIght before I do the gaskets and UIM, flush with green, repair, then flush with green again? Or... some other method?
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:27 AM   #19
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The newer APN kits have included two stovepipes to fit the older or newer LIMs.

You have to drain the coolant to do the UIM/LIM job anyway, so it makes sense to flush the components while you are putting it back together. There is a great discussion on flushing here: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=74468
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Old 04-03-2007, 12:41 PM   #20
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Awesome, glad to hear it comes with the stovepipes.

I'll follow the hose and flush every way possible procedure to get all the old crap out.
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