Transmission Fluid Change
jseklund wrote:
If you do not have rubber tubing, I didn't, the next bet is one of those yellow flexible nozzles that look like flexi-straws on a gas container. I hope you know what I'm talking about. The fluid comes out FAST if you flush by starting the engine.
CAn you tell me how you set up to do a flush? How did you refill the fluid as the "old" fluid went into the drain bucket?
If you do not have rubber tubing, I didn't, the next bet is one of those yellow flexible nozzles that look like flexi-straws on a gas container. I hope you know what I'm talking about. The fluid comes out FAST if you flush by starting the engine.
CAn you tell me how you set up to do a flush? How did you refill the fluid as the "old" fluid went into the drain bucket?
Now, if you have a lot of miles like I did, I basically did the following:
1. Drain and drop pan.
2. Pull out the filter
3. Replace filter, gasket, pan and bolt back together (Torque wrench!)
4. Refill the pan through the dipstick tub. (just funnel it) *this is where the easy part ends (at least for me)*
5. Get under the car and follow the lines to the cooler, they usually run parallel together from the looks of it, and are usually tin/metal (not rubber). They attach to rubber hosing at a point, but the runs are metal.
6. Undo one of the lines and hook up a rubber hose/gasket to direct the fluid into a BUCKET. This can come out fast and will splash all over, get a deep bucket.
7. Start and stop the car quickly, to make sure you have the old fluid coming out of the hose and don't have anything reversed. If you get new, red fluid, you connected to the wrong line.
8. Once connected to the correct line, I had 2 people help me. One person starts the car, one person pours new fluid into the dipstick, one person watches the old crap come out of the hose. When the old stuff is red like the new stuff, you shut off the car and button it back up.
If you use a rubbe hose, you can probably route the hose so that you can see the fluid as you pour into the funnel, and thus would really only need 2 people.
Caveat- I am not a great car guy, don't know what I'm doing. I had someone find the cooler lines for me, and I did have the wrong one hooked up first. You DO NOT want to let the TC run dry. Make sure you have old stuff coming OUT of the line you tap, and that you are pouring new stuff into the pan as fast as possible.
I have also seen people claiming that you can put a hose on the second section of line that leads to a bucket of new fluid and the tranny pump will suck the new stuff in as it pushes old stuff out. Doesn't work, don't bother.
This is a doable, albeit not-so-easy task. Be very careful, and read everything you can about doing it. There are a lot of conflicting pieces of info out there, and 90% of success is having the knowledge and the tools. The first time you do it, you will probably run into at least one unexpected bump, but if you have plenty of reading behind you, and a hardware store nearby, you will overcome.
Check out the kitchen storage container sectiion at Walmart for a 4-5 inch deep clear plastic storage container maybe 24 inches by 16 inches. Someone suggested that for catching the fluid and it would ork much better than the round engine oil pan I use. Also put garbage bags or newspaper around the work area. Loosen bolts more on the small, narrow end of pan so fluid starts to drain from there at first. Then loosen others more to drain more and faster.
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What torque specs do those pan bolts need to be tightened to when buttoning it all back together? I plan on doing this wednesday night on my buddies lift instead of at home with jackstands and a creeper.
We'll also be using his scantool to see if any codes have been stored in the computer.
Jeremy
We'll also be using his scantool to see if any codes have been stored in the computer.
Jeremy
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