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Old 04-09-2006, 11:35 AM   #11
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If you do not have rubber tubing, I didn't, the next bet is one of those yellow flexible nozzles that look like flexi-straws on a gas container. I hope you know what I'm talking about. The fluid comes out FAST if you flush by starting the engine.


CAn you tell me how you set up to do a flush? How did you refill the fluid as the "old" fluid went into the drain bucket?
Well, I am with just about everyone else with this when I say that the flush isn't absolutely necessary. This whole thing is a very messy job, and time consuming. The flush gets ALL of the fluid out of the torque converter, which is nice if you are picky I guess. I only did the flush because my car has never had the transmission fluid changed, and I have about 100K on it. I know this goes against popular theory, but I don't beleive for a second that flushing will "kill a tranny". If I had been changing every 30K or even 50K, I may consider just doing the pan drop/filter change. Honestly, even at 100K my fluid was a copper color. No longer red, but not BLACK. It was time for it to go though, and copper isn't great either. Point being, do it every 30-50K and don't bother with the flush if you do.

Now, if you have a lot of miles like I did, I basically did the following:

1. Drain and drop pan.
2. Pull out the filter
3. Replace filter, gasket, pan and bolt back together (Torque wrench!)
4. Refill the pan through the dipstick tub. (just funnel it) *this is where the easy part ends (at least for me)*

5. Get under the car and follow the lines to the cooler, they usually run parallel together from the looks of it, and are usually tin/metal (not rubber). They attach to rubber hosing at a point, but the runs are metal.
6. Undo one of the lines and hook up a rubber hose/gasket to direct the fluid into a BUCKET. This can come out fast and will splash all over, get a deep bucket.
7. Start and stop the car quickly, to make sure you have the old fluid coming out of the hose and don't have anything reversed. If you get new, red fluid, you connected to the wrong line.
8. Once connected to the correct line, I had 2 people help me. One person starts the car, one person pours new fluid into the dipstick, one person watches the old crap come out of the hose. When the old stuff is red like the new stuff, you shut off the car and button it back up.

If you use a rubbe hose, you can probably route the hose so that you can see the fluid as you pour into the funnel, and thus would really only need 2 people.

Caveat- I am not a great car guy, don't know what I'm doing. I had someone find the cooler lines for me, and I did have the wrong one hooked up first. You DO NOT want to let the TC run dry. Make sure you have old stuff coming OUT of the line you tap, and that you are pouring new stuff into the pan as fast as possible.

I have also seen people claiming that you can put a hose on the second section of line that leads to a bucket of new fluid and the tranny pump will suck the new stuff in as it pushes old stuff out. Doesn't work, don't bother.

This is a doable, albeit not-so-easy task. Be very careful, and read everything you can about doing it. There are a lot of conflicting pieces of info out there, and 90% of success is having the knowledge and the tools. The first time you do it, you will probably run into at least one unexpected bump, but if you have plenty of reading behind you, and a hardware store nearby, you will overcome.
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:17 AM   #12
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How much fluid do you need to re-add if you just go with the method of dropping the pand and replacing filter?
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:21 AM   #13
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A pan and filter drop, usually loses about 6-7 quarts of fluid to replace.
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Old 01-08-2007, 01:15 PM   #14
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gracias
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:43 PM   #15
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Default Pan to catch trans fluid

Check out the kitchen storage container sectiion at Walmart for a 4-5 inch deep clear plastic storage container maybe 24 inches by 16 inches. Someone suggested that for catching the fluid and it would ork much better than the round engine oil pan I use. Also put garbage bags or newspaper around the work area. Loosen bolts more on the small, narrow end of pan so fluid starts to drain from there at first. Then loosen others more to drain more and faster.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:49 AM   #16
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What torque specs do those pan bolts need to be tightened to when buttoning it all back together? I plan on doing this wednesday night on my buddies lift instead of at home with jackstands and a creeper.

We'll also be using his scantool to see if any codes have been stored in the computer.

Jeremy
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Old 01-09-2007, 10:51 AM   #17
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10 ft lbs for the pan bolts.
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Old 01-09-2007, 11:28 AM   #18
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and a touch of locktitle IIRC
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