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Replacing Starter

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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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Default Replacing Starter

The starter on my wife'* 2000 Bonneville is starting to act up, dragging periodically. Haven't gotten underneath yet to see how big a job it will be to replace but wanted to ask if any of you guys have done it and what to expect. Also, I checked the prices at some of the auto parts stores around here - 159.99 for a reman and 199.99 for new. I'm thinking of just taking the old one to a repair shop and let them rebuild it. Which would you do?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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DG, I haven't done this job but here is a step by step procedure.
1. Disconnect neg. battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the torque converter cover.
4. Remove the transaxle cooler line clip from the transaxle.
5. Disconnect pos. battery cable from the starter.
6. Disconnect the wire from the solenoid *-terminal on the starter.
7. Remove the 2 starter motor mounting bolts.
8. Remove the starter motor.
When reinstalling the starter motor, tighten mounting bolts to 32 lb ft.
You'll have to weigh the cost of a new or refurbed starter motor against taking your existing starter motor to a rebuild shop. Let us know how you make out.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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I changed one on my '96 Buick which had the Series II engine, and it was quite easy - less than 45 minutes. I didn't have to remove any cooling lines for that, however and have not had to work on the starter on my current car.

I've had both good and bad luck with rebuilders, but frankly enough bad that I now just buy the remanufactured starters.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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i would regrease it myself 1st and see if that fixes the problem.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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Nismo, there'* nothing to grease on a Bonneville starter.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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can you show me a picture of one opened up?
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:56 AM
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Starter motors and motors in general have not changed much over the years. There have been some modifications, such as gear reduction, but they are all very similar. Here'* an exploded view of a starter that was put into a 1929 through 1954 Chevy.

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1929_54chevyparts/02/138.HTM

IMO, dealing with the strong magnetic field, flying springs, brushes, etc., is not something that should be attempted by someone who isn't sure of what they're doing, knows what the parts are, and where they go. If it'* taken apart, it will then likely stay apart, and most autoparts stores are not likely to accept a starter in a bushel basket as a returnable core.

If the starter is dragging due to friction, the bushings are likely shot, and lubing them will be a very temporary fix. Also, someone removing it, and lubing it up is probably going to want to test it before putting it back in. Running a series wound motor without a load to limit its speed can be dangerous. Just checking to see how well it spins will not be a useful test, anyway.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Archon
Running a series wound motor without a load to limit its speed can be dangerous. Just checking to see how well it spins will not be a useful test, anyway.
Good point, Archon. DC series motors must be conected to a load, otherwise they will accelerate into oblivion.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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here is a diy for a maxima starter: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
might be of some help to you if no one here has a little writeup for a bonne starter.
once you open it up it should be pretty simple.
as stated above they havn't changed much...mainly because they don't need to.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by NismoMax
here is a diy for a maxima starter: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
Not sure that will help DG. American starters are very different than whats in that Maxima.
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